Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Heading North, Then South, Then West

The best plans are flexible enough to change on a dime, and when they do change, often, there’s an unexpected positive result down that new path. If you’ve been following our journey heading west from Michigan instead of going to Florida in 2022, you already know some of the changes we’ve made due to the weather. Our third week on the road was no different.

As we rolled through a continuously desert-like landscape of west Texas, we brought the high winds whipping up dust devils and freezing or nearly so overnight temperatures with us that we’d been dealing with since leaving New Orleans. We would see a lot more in the weeks ahead before reaching California.

One encounters some of the most interesting experiences on the way to Big Bend National Park, like this brief dust storm.

We were still holding out hope to get to White Sands National Park, but with hurricane-strength winds predicted, we gave up and went to our sandbagged alternative. We pointed our 2015.5 Unity Murphy Bed ‘Lucky Us’ south from Whites City and Carlsbad Caverns to Big Bend National Park on the Mexico-U.S. border. If you look at a map, we’ve gone north from San Antonio to Fredericksburg, then White’s City, and now, we’re heading south back into Texas.

We were too late to book a campsite in the park, so we took the next best thing, a private campground in Marathon, close enough for day trips, which had its own great treat in store.

After an interesting phone GPS-directed “shortcut” attempt on Route 720 to Malaga that kept narrowing almost to nearly a two-track, then descending into a creek ford (don’t take it; repeat, do not take it), we turned around and backtracked to the town of Carlsbad and headed, sans creek crossing, towards Marathon.

Marathon

It’s a motel. It’s an RV Park, and Marathon Motel & RV Park is also a dark sky park (bonus!!), something we didn’t know when we booked. The sky here is inky, and when weather permits, campers can line up to peek into a couple of large amateur telescopes for some free star and planet viewing. The motel’s southwest motif was also cute, and local restaurants were nearby.

The following day, we drove through nearly 40 miles (64 kilometers) of the Chihuahuan Desert to the park and turned right towards the destination most who come here want to see: Santa Elena Canyon. But first, a few stops you may want to make.

We turned off the main park road and took the 22-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive that in part runs along the Rio Grande, past the arid-looking Cottonwood Campground. The drive includes a relatively easy one-mile hike to the early 20th-century Homer Wilson Ranch site, about as desolate a place for a ranch as you can imagine, which is why it’s nothing but a skeleton of a house and corral. But no matter what, bring water, plenty of water.

Homer Wilson Ranch is only a mile from the parking area but take water, please. Please.

From the looks of it, life at the Wilson Ranch was probably not the best spot for a ranch.

A scenic turnout will lead to some cute photos at the Mule Ears, a half-mile off the scenic drive.

We also stopped to view Tuff Canyon—it’s not tough, but made of tuff, compacted volcanic ash—from above as others walked the wash. Watch out in the May-September rainy season, when it often flows with water, including flash floods.

Site of a famous annual chili cook-off in November, the near-ghost town of Terlingua has indoor lodging in Big Bend.

The near-ghost town of Terlingua–there is lodging there–a former mercury mining community, hosts a famous chili cook-off each November. Then we arrived at the spot most visitors come to see, the imposing site of the Rio Grande emerging from the walls of Santa Elena Canyon.

The canyon trail takes you about a mile-plus into the canyon.

The limestone formed when this was a sea bed rises straight up 1,500 feet, cut through over millions of years by the Rio Grande. Don’t judge the river’s size here in March by what it can do in the rainy season. There can be class IV rapids upstream. The river was barely moving on our visit. Families waded across to Mexico to say they did.

The Rio Grande emerges from Santa Elena Canyon into the desert. Not very wide, is it?

We crossed Terlingua Creek flowing into the river on a shaky “bridge” of sticks and walked the 1.7-mile trail into the canyon, where the cliffs are the most dramatic unless you are game to kayak upstream. You can also put in 17 miles upstream at Lajitas. That’s the trip that could get “interesting” when those rapids, labyrinths of boulders, and such may come into play.

Crossing Terlingua Creek before it joins the Rio Grande. Mexico is on the other side of the Rio Grande.

This is the shot you need to take from the canyon trail.

Farther into the canyon, the river takes in both sides.

We headed back to Marathon, briefly stopping at the Border Patrol checkpoint, where officers waved us through, not even wanting to peek inside an RV driven by Denise. We arrived at the campground, set up for the evening, and bundled up for another night of viewing the heavens in the dark sky area, including being able to see Galaxy M33 with the naked eye. It’s more than two million light-years away.

Bill sets up his iPhone for a try at some time-lapse night photos at the campground in Marathon.

The next morning, we shook off the ice on our folding chairs and headed deeper into the southwest, successfully turning a weather-related detour into a beautiful experience. But this leg wasn’t over.

Overnight ice in the desert campground at Marathon.

Marfa

On the way, we went through quirky Marfa, a population of about 2,000. How quirky? The local newspaper doubles as a bar and restaurant.

Marfa also rightly has an artsy reputation and was the location for several movies, including the James Dean/Elizabeth Taylor/Rock Hudson 50s blockbuster Giant, that’s featured in a billboard mural along Highway 90. More recently, No Country For Old Men and There Will Be Blood also were shot there. The town also somehow became a spot to purchase purses and leather goods, but not at the “Prada store.” As a pop art comment on commercialism, it doesn’t sell anything.

It’s a UFO! No, dang it, just an “eyes in the sky” blimp of the Border Patrol near Maria.

The rumored Marfa lights and viewing area didn’t appear when we passed at mid-day, but we did see an IFO (identified flying object), a white blimp used by the border patrol to keep eyes on the ground since we were only 40 miles from the border.

When You Go

Bring plenty of water anywhere you hike here. This is a dry, dry country, and perspiration dries immediately. The National Park Service recommends one liter of water per person for each hour of hiking. As of this writing, at least two hikers have died in the park this year alone. Be mindful of those overnight temps as well. The desert may be hot, but it can drop near or below freezing at night.

As with any National Park stay, plan ahead if you want to stay in the park proper. Cottonwood Canyon campground has water. There also is camping at Big Bend State Park. Tuff Canyon Trail was temporarily closed due to a rock slide in the spring of 2023. Be sure to check the park’s website for updates.

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

A Day in a Cavern, Windy Cold Weather, and a Change of Plans

We’re taking you along on our trip west last winter–leaving Michigan behind, heading south, then west, to Texas. We’ve skipped Mustang Island due to a harsh cold front, toured San Antonio and Fredericksburg, and are now heading northwest to Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, about a six-hour drive. From there, we plan to visit the White Sands National Park. We’ve been carefully watching the weather, paying attention to high winds and near-freezing temperatures, trying to avoid winterizing our 2015.5 Unity Murphy Bed “Lucky Us.” So far, so good. We disconnect the water from the RV nightly but typically find a little ice dripping from the water heater each morning.

Driving through the Texas Hill Country near Ozona.

I can’t say much about our trip from Fredericksburg to Carlsbad Caverns because there ain’t much to see once you leave the Texas Hill Country. Once we came to Fort Stockton and took a turn north, we passed a lot of dusty fields, followed by even more dusty fields. One town demanded a quick stop for obvious reasons.

When you are traveling with a man named Bill, ya better stop in Pecos, Texas, for a photo op. If you don’t know, Pecos Bill was a fictional cowboy and folk hero in stories written by Tex O’Reilly.

We made it to Carlsbad, New Mexico, just in time for dinner and found Rosy’s Mexican Restaurant. Its humble exterior paled in comparison to the authentic, tasty food served here.

If you are eating Mexican in New Mexico, you gotta start out with guacamole, chips, and, of course, Dos Equis.

Wanting to try something we had never heard of before, we chose discada, a delicious blend of ground beef, chorizo, and more, along with refried beans and Mexican rice.

We split this delicious dolce la leche dessert.

Next, we headed about a half-hour south to White’s City RV Park and Campground, close to our next day’s destination: Carlsbad Caverns. This RV Park is about what you’d expect in the desert, and it has a cute general store. BLM land is nearby, but we wanted to be close to the park and have electricity, and we were glad we did, with nighttime temperatures dropped near freezing.

White’s City RV Park and Campground

Carlsbad Caverns

Planning is essential to visit Carlsbad Caverns National Park in the Chihuahuan Desert, within the Guadalupe Mountains. First, a timed ticket must be purchased prior to entry, and they do sell out (don’t worry, they are just a buck each). We purchased our tickets weeks in advance to make sure we could get in. Second, assess your physical abilities prior to visiting. According to the park website, the Natural Entrance Trail is a steep 1-1/4 mile (2-kilometer) descent, equivalent to about 79 stories, from the Natural Entrance to the Big Room. Hiking time is about one hour to get to The Big Room. The park warns that this trail is not recommended for visitors with heart or respiratory conditions, and I’ll warn you if you have bad knees or hips that this descent might be challenging for you. Hiking poles are not allowed, and sturdy, closed-toe shoes are recommended. We took the natural entrance and were glad we did–there are lots to see before you enter The Big Room. If you are not up for the descent, take the elevator to the bottom of the Natural Entrance Trail, where you can enter The Big Room. Third, please pay attention to the warnings not to spread White Nose syndrome in bats, particularly if you will be visiting another cavern. A historic underground lunchroom and bathrooms are near the elevator and The Big Room.

It’s a 7-mile, winding trail from White’s City to the Visitor Center.

Once you’ve parked at the Visitor Center, choose your descent, either by foot or elevator, into the cave.

We chose to take the Natural Entrance.

According to the National Park Service website, hydrogen-sulfide-rich (H₂S) waters began to migrate through fractures and faults in the Capitan limestone between four and six million years ago. This water, mixed with rainwater, formed sulfuric acid (H₂SO₄) and moved down from the surface. This acid dissolved the limestone along fractures and folded in the rock to form Carlsbad Cavern. This process left behind massive gypsum deposits, clay, and silt as evidence of how the cave was formed.

The formations you see, some sleek, some gnarled, may inspire you.

You might feel like you are on a journey to the center of the earth as you descend to The Big Room.

Stalactites and stalagmites can be seen throughout your self-guided tour.

The Big Room is the largest single-cave chamber by volume in North America. A 1.25-mile walking path takes you through this limestone chamber, with a shortcut if you don’t want to walk the entire path. National Park Services estimates about an hour and a half to explore. After our hike, we were ready to take the elevator back up to the top.

Taking a Different Direction

We had planned to head north to Artesia and spend the night there before taking the two-and-one-half-hour scenic drive to White Sands National Park, where we would spend the day and then camp nearby overnight. But freezing night temperatures and predicted 70-mile-per-hour winds changed our minds, and we had to scrap our plans. Frozen pipes and a sand-blasted exterior were not on our wish list. So, we changed direction, once again, heading south to a National Park. Watch for our next blog to see where we went. But for now, we’ll follow two other LTV owners, whom we met up top in the parking lot as we exited the park. Happy Travels!

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

As promised in the Fall 2022 edition of my Gotta Have It series, here’s Part Two of some cool items that might make sense for your LTV.

Soup(er)’s On

We planned to take and test at least one or two of these first items on our annual Florida trip, and so far, we like it a lot. It’s one of the most useful items we’ve run across in a while, called Souper Cubes. They’re food-grade silicon trays that come with compartments ranging from one-ounce to two-cup portions, great for pre-trip preparation of several meals that can fit either in our 2015.5 Unity’s fridge or freezer, and they can be put in an oven up to 415 degrees.

We plan to use them for soups and make-ahead meals like chili, pasta sauce, and more. They’ve made an appearance on the TV show Shark Tank, and as someone there thought as well, they look like a winner.

We’re taking these silicon freezer containers with us from now on. Sizes up to two cups.

Bike Bags

Speaking of Florida, we’ve been known to ride pedal bikes to the store for essentials rather than unhook and drive. To bring back our loot, we’ve relied on backpacks, but sometimes the stuff we buy doesn’t fit. We think we’ve found a couple of solutions.

If you’re a biker, you know what a pannier is. It’s a system, either one sack or two, that fits over a rack on your bike’s seat post for carrying things on longer trips, and it’s pronounced pan-yer.

North Street’s bags are made to attach to a bike rack over the rear wheel and are great for groceries. (Photo source: northstbags.com)

North Street Bags of Portland, Oregon, developed the Micro Pannier. Strapped to a rack with a three-point attachment system. The attachment points of the micro bag (pictured above) are two fixed hooks at the top, which fit over the tubing of a rear rack, and a hook on a bungee at the bottom to tension the system and keep it in place. This pannier is a perfect way to get groceries back to your campsite without the risk of crashing while balancing a plastic bag with one hand or draping it over your handlebars and hoping the bag doesn’t give way.

All of North Street’s offerings are made with recycled materials, are extremely water resistant, and each is made to order. Up to three hook sizes are available, depending on the model. Most pannier sizes are measured in liters, ranging from 14-liter micro panniers to 30 liters. There’s also a convenient grocery pannier with grab straps. Prices start around $60. They also make backpacks, handlebar packs, and other snappy items.

A bike basket bag from Portland Design Works. The company also sells add-ons like headlights and fenders. (Photo source: ridepdw.com)

Got a front basket? Both North Street, and another maker, Portland Design Works, make bags for front baskets that can expand what you can safely carry. PDW also sells other biking accessories, including headlights, fenders to avoid “skunk stripe syndrome,” and more. Check those out as well. Bags are about $50.

Lunch On The Road

Nearly everyone likes tuna salad, but not the mercury that may be present in some canned tuna. Products from Safe Catch are unique. Each tuna they sustainably catch is tested for contaminants, hand-packed, and comes in convenient compact containers for easy RV storage. They’re available at lots of stores, from Walmart to Kroger and more.

Elite tuna also comes in cans. (Photo source: safecatch.com)

Don’t Blow It

But if you do blow a bike tire on the road, here’s a great compact item that will get you going again quickly. It’s from Slime, makers of that liquid tube sealant. The kit contains levers to get it off the rim and put it back on without causing another leak, inflator, and patches. For a $15, it’s a great addition to your bike kit.

Whether you ride an e-bike or push pedals, a tube repair kit is always something you should carry.

Ride-Alongs

I know many RVers bring a mascot along, be they live like a cat or dog or like a stuffed animal. We once had a small bear dressed as a fly fisherman would. If you’re still looking or have grandkids or kids to entertain, a tiny tagalong from Myriderz might fit your space nicely. These critters ranging from cute elephants to rabbits and dogs would keep the young ones occupied on the way to your next destination or as an LTV mascot.

MyRiderz conveniently fits into cup holders. (Photo source: myriderz.com)

Underwater Speaker

Why I would want to listen to music through a speaker underwater, I don’t know. But the Barnacle Pro Bluetooth speaker promises you can. It’s also a stand-alone music player holding 2,000 songs. It’s waterproof, so that you can use it normally, too. It charges with a mini USB and is about the size of a hardball baseball. The cost is about $69. For its size, it has good sound quality. But, please, please don’t blast the volume and disturb others. Be nice!

A portable speaker from Speaqua can hold 2,000 songs and is Bluetooth equipped and waterproof.

Lookin’ Good On The Road

Lastly, let’s face it, we all want to look good, and these next items fall into the things one can carry in the medicine chest. Two Blithe Cosmetics products get great online reviews from users for both its serums and “vital treatments.” Both Korean-made items contain, among other things, fruit and other natural extracts, and their compact containers don’t take up a lot of room. If you believe these products make you look years or maybe at least weeks younger, they’re about $35 each. Blithe also sells other items like must-have reef-safe sunscreen. As the old commercial says, a little dab’ll do ya.

Blithe cosmetics are plant-based. (Photo source: blithecosmetic.com)

We’ll be back with another Gotta Have It soon!

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Discovering A Presidential Past

When we last left you, we were heading south, then west, from Michigan toward Arizona on our first-ever departure from our usual winter respite in Florida in our 2015.5 Leisure MB ‘Lucky Us.’

We made it to San Antonio, Texas, carefully navigating cold fronts, winds, rain, and freezing temperatures. Now, we were hoping for warmer, milder weather. Watching social media posts, we quickly became aware of what was ahead. Interstate 10, which we would be using to cross west in about a week, had shut down due to high winds, and temperatures were dipping close to freezing at night. But we didn’t have to worry just yet, as we headed north out of San Antonio into the Texas Hill Country to visit a historic presidential home, savor some real Texas barbecue and maybe a little country music before we moved on to Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico.

Now, if you didn’t already know this, let me say that Texas is one heck of a big state–the second largest in the U.S. and the largest in the lower 48 with 261,914 square miles, second only to Alaska. Texas is divided into five distinct regions–we already touched the South Texas Plains while in San Antonio and the Gulf Coast while at Mustang Island. Now, we’re headed north to the Texas Hill Country, where we stopped in Johnson City for lunch and started our historical tour.

Johnson City

Bill heads into Ronnie’s Pit BBQ for some tasty Texas vittles.

We split the triple combo—three types of meat plus two sides.

After some delicious Texas barbeque, we were on to our presidential destination, where we explored the “Texas White House” and boyhood home of Lyndon B. Johnson, our 36th president. The Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park consists of two separate districts–one in Johnson City, housing a Visitor Center and Johnson’s boyhood home, the other housing the LBJ Ranch, 14 miles west.

LBJ, as he was known, was a lifelong Texan whose political life began serving as a U.S. representative, U.S. senator, and the Senate’s majority leader. He served as vice president to John F. Kennedy before becoming president following Kennedy’s assassination. Johnson created the term “The Great Society” to describe his efforts to expand civil rights, access to health care, aid to education and the arts, urban and rural development, and more. He created the “War on Poverty” to improve life for low-income Americans and signed the Social Security Amendments of 1965, which created Medicare and Medicaid. His wife, Lady Bird Johnson, was a leader in conservation efforts; she advocated for creating National Park Service units, lobbied for the passage of environmental legislation, and worked to beautify the nation’s highway system and America. She believed that “where flowers bloom, so does hope.” Together, the home where the President and First Lady lived became known as the place where “all the world is welcome here.”

LBJ Ranch earned the moniker “Texas White House” as President Johnson spent about 20 percent of his time there while serving as President. Although the interior of his home is closed due to structural issues, our visit was well worth it to discover LBJ’s Texas roots, Lady Bird Johnson’s efforts to beautify America, and more.

Our history tour starts in Johnson City to see where Lyndon B. Johnson’s boyhood home is.

We drove the six-mile self-guided tour at the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park.

Descendants of LBJ’s original herd of Hereford cattle live at this national park.

LBJ’s home, known as “The Texas White House.” Although the house is closed to visitors, a park ranger gives short talks throughout the day.

LBJ used this beautiful 1934 Ford Phaeton Touring car as an “all-terrain hunting vehicle.” It’s one of several vehicles displayed.

A wet bar with a water faucet, a rifle rack, a V-8 Zephyr engine, plus a steel plate to prevent damage enabled LBJ to escape the rigors of political life by hunting on his ranch.

The Perdernales River flows through the LBJ Ranch.

Final resting place for LBJ and Lady Bird Johnson.

Fredericksburg

Drive about a half-hour west of the LBJ Ranch, and you’ll be in Fredericksburg, where we spent two nights at the conveniently located Lady Bird Municipal Park Campground. You’ll hear planes take off at the nearby airport, but the spacious sites at this campground suited us just fine.

Our site is at Lady Bird Johnson Municipal Park Campground.

The next day we visited the National Museum of the Pacific War, named one of the top five history museums in the United States. Established to honor Fredericksburg’s native son Admiral Chester Nimitz, Commander-in-Chief of Allied Forces, Pacific, this six-acre campus provides the nation’s most comprehensive account of this theater of World War II. We only had time to examine some of the displays at the George H. W. Bush Gallery; history buffs will want to spend an entire day there to read the moving narratives and examine the artifacts. Exhibits detail Pearl Harbor, Iwo Jima, Okinawa, the Atomic Bomb, and more. Also on campus is the Admiral Nimitz Gallery, Plaza of Presidents, Japanese Garden of Peace, Memorial Courtyard, and the Pacific Combat Zone.

George H. W. Bush Gallery

Once we left the museum, we had a hankering for some local cooking and found Backwoods BBQ. It did not disappoint.

No, we didn’t eat all of this for lunch!

Eating local is one of the highlights of traveling. Backwoods BBQ was mighty tasty.

Luckenbach

It’s hard for me to say Luckenbach without adding “Texas” after it, and I can’t say “Luckenbach Texas” without hearing Waylon Jennings singing his tribute to this music mecca in my head. This tiny town, the tiniest in Texas, boasts a population of three. There’s a general store, a dance hall, and, of course, a bar. Plan to grab a beer and hear musicians play during the Picker’s Circle scheduled most days; bigger, ticketed events are held at the dance hall.

Grab a drink and sit a spell while listening to musicians performing at Luckenbach.

The Post Office also serves as the General Store in Luckenbach.

We’re ready now to head north to Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico. It’ll be about a six-hour drive. Watching the weather, it looks like we will just skirt the freezing temperatures. From Carlsbad Caverns, we hope to make it to White Sands National Park, where colder temperatures and high winds have prevailed. Follow along on our adventures to Arizona and our final destination–California!

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Driving One of America’s Most Historic Routes, The Natchez Trace

The history of one of America’s earliest highways stretches 10,000 years, maybe more. The footpath that ran through the future country of America from its south to its mid-section was used by the first Americans. European and American explorers and soldiers became known as the Natchez Trace. So numerous were its travelers that their footsteps cut through hills 20 feet deep in places you can still explore on foot today along one of America’s great drives, the 444-mile Natchez Trace Parkway. Like similar routes we’ve taken you on, it took decades to complete. It was begun in 1938 during the Depression to put Americans back to work. It was completed in 2005, but the route we’ll call the NTP for short, like others, is nearly always undergoing repairs, as you’d expect for the current version of this route, which runs from near Natchez, Mississippi, to near Nashville, Tenn.

Like we did on our two-part journey along the Blue Ridge Parkway in our 2015.5 Unity Murphy Bed, ‘Lucky Us,’ we’ll take you along from south to north so that you can plan your own great drive. But first, some specifics. We began by visiting New Orleans, which you can read about here.

North from New Orleans

In the early 1800s, the Trace was one of the first roads developed in the then-new part of the United States, resulting from the Louisiana Purchase by Thomas Jefferson. That “postal route,” as it was also called, would prove crucial in the War of 1812 in transporting soldiers for the defense of New Orleans against the British. Flatboats brought goods from the north to New Orleans, and their crews would then make the 500-mile walk back to Nashville on The Trace to do it all over again.

Developing the route also proved disastrous for the first Americans, the Choctaw, Natchez, Creek, and Cherokee, living in the area for centuries. Those tribes using that same route were forcibly removed from the region by the U.S. along what would be called the Trail of Tears, which crosses the Trace several times, ending in the treeless prairie of Oklahoma. There are others with the same name, but this is the original.

We began our journey to join the parkway at its southern end near Natchez, Mississippi, in New Orleans, about 175 miles south. We first headed towards Baton Rouge, then along part of America’s Great River, the Mississippi, along Highway 61, nicknamed the Mississippi Blues Trail, which is worth a tour. Before we hop onto the Trace, a few stops are noteworthy.

The Whitney

We passed by the Mississippi’s huge levees that normally keep the river in check, interspersed with chemical factories—the lower river is famous, or infamous, for these—and other industries, and it’s also infamous for our first stop miles from the start of the Trace. It’s a fitting prelude. Near the tiny community of Wallace, about an hour from New Orleans, is the Whitney Plantation. It’s one of several still marked by their original names on Google Maps. These plantations that made their owners rich in slave labor and sugar cane before the Civil War were set on both sides of the Mississippi.

The Whitney tells its story from the slave’s point of view. You may experience the gamut of emotions, from shame to despair, to anger, to hope, and from this, we all can continue moving in a different direction.

A statue depicting a slave child staring at the “big house” at The Whitney.

You’ll start by passing by iron cauldrons used by slaves for processing cane sugar on this plantation that remained active from 1803 until 1975. Slavery, of course, ended after the Civil War, but the same form with a different name, share-cropping, and other means, meant that the plantation’s workers still were tied to the land.

Walking through the preserved slave quarters, you’ll see how people lived in these shacks not too long ago. You’ll also learn how in the 15th century, the church decreed that all non-believers deserved eternal servitude, driving the notion that slavery was just fine. You’ll also learn of the 300 slave revolts and how slaves allied with free blacks, first Americans, and poor whites to fight their captors, and see the monument dedicated to the more than 100,000 slaves that lived in Louisiana on plantations like The Whitney between 1719 and 1820 alone. Walk the grounds, tour the owner’s house, and ponder the statue of the small slave boy staring at that house.

Cauldrons used to boil cane juice into sugar set outside the cabins of the slaves who worked them at The Whitney.

Afterward, mull over what you saw at local authentic Cajun restaurants like the B&C Seafood in North Vacherie near the riverbank and only a mile from the plantation.

A great meal at this nondescript little restaurant.

The Whitney is one of four sugar plantations you can visit between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Only five miles away, visit Laura Plantation, where rock and blues pianist Fats Domino’s parents lived and worked. When the Civil War broke out, 186 slaves worked its cane fields.

After that sobering journey into American history, we boondocked at the Cabela’s store in Gonzales, LA, then drove through Baton Rouge and on to Natchez, 90 miles north to overnight at Natchez State Park, a few miles from the start of The Natchez Trace.

Tracing the Trace: Take Your Time

We backtracked a bit to the start of The Trace, where tens of thousands started that 500-mile walk north to Nashville. Like the Blue Ridge Parkway, the speed limit on the tree-lined NTP is only 45 mph (70 kph), and for a good reason.

It’s to be enjoyed, not sped through. If it took us a day or four to drive 400 miles, we didn’t care, and you shouldn’t either. It took us five, and there were so many spots to see. Yup, 100 miles a day on average, or less. Here are some of the highlights of our journey north to Nashville. It took those who went before you weeks.

We entered The Trace outside Natchez near two historical spots. The Grand Village of Natchez Indians outside Natchez was the political and religious capital of the tribe that flourished here before Europeans came.

We entered The Trace near Natchez.

Natchez also was known in the mid-1800s as a center for the “domestic” slave trade, meaning slaves that were already in the U.S., since importing kidnapped humans was by then banned. Another was Montgomery, Alabama, which we detailed on that state’s Civil Rights Trail here. A historic site called Forks of The Road in Natchez memorializes the lives traded and changed here. The Grand Village site and its historic mounds are managed by the state. About 45 minutes later, we stopped at our first NTP historic site at milepost 15.5.

Mount Locust

This is the only remaining “stand,” or inn, that foot travelers, known as “Kaintucks” and Native Americans, stopped at overnight along the Trace. There were more than 50. Mount Locust dates from around 1780. Here, 25 cents got you dinner of corn meal mush, plus a spot on the front porch or elsewhere to sleep. The flatboats they brought down through the Ohio River to the New Orleans area were then dismantled after the goods carried were delivered. The wood was used to build houses, which still stand in New Orleans. When steamboats took over on the Mississippi, and The Trace became less traveled, Mount Locust became a cotton plantation. Evidence of that is the old slave cemetery. It’s staffed by the park service and a great intro to The Trace.

The Mount Locust “stand,” or inn, where from the late 1700s to the steamboat era, foot travelers on the 500-mile walk back north after delivering their goods to the New Orleans area on flatboats spent the night, either inside or on the porch.

The Old Trace, Milepost 20, 41.5

You’ll see how deep it was worn by untold thousands of feet and wagon wheels. About 20 miles north, another sign will direct you to another part of the Old Sunken Trace, and sunken it is, at least 20 feet below the hill on either side. Here’s your first chance to head north to walk part of the original Trace.

Magnum Mound and Grindstone Ford, 45.7

Besides a walk to view another portion of The Trace, Grindstone Ford was the site of another “stand” along the trail. Magnum Mound, estimated to be around 1,000 years old, is also reached from the Ford parking lot and remains a sacred site for First Nations tribe members. Another site, Owens Creek, Mile 52.4, is only two miles from your first overnight.

Rocky Springs, 54.8

All campsites within the parkway, including here at Rocky Springs, are first-come, first-served. Water may be available; however, there are occasional issues with the lines, so come with enough for your stay But, with an LTV, who cares. Camping is free.

Day Two, Vicksburg

We left the trail for a day here and detoured west to Vicksburg. If you’re a Civil War buff, you must come to the city’s National Military Park. The two-month siege of the city ended with the Union finally in control of the Mississippi, and honors for General Ulysses S. Grant, who commanded the forces that pummeled the city before it surrendered on July 4, 1863, the same day Lee was defeated at Gettysburg.

Tour the battlements to see how close the opposing armies were during the siege, which forced residents to live in hillside caves, as Union artillery from the Mississippi, clogged with Union ironclads, relentlessly bombarded Confederate forces.

The Vicksburg battlefield. Confederate and Union forces were only a few hundred yards apart.

You can also visit the gunboat Cairo which was sunk in 1862 in the Yazoo River north of where it joins the Mississippi at Vicksburg. It was raised and preserved at a special covered display near the battlefield. The ship holds the ignominious distinction of being the first ever to be sunk by a remotely detonated mine. All crew survived the sinking.

The Union gunboat Cairo recovered from the nearby Yazoo River and took part in the Vicksburg siege.

That night, we stayed in one of the 67 spaces at the Ameristar Casino RV Park, part of that casino overlooking the river, before returning to The Trace.

Day Three, Jackson North

We left Vicksburg and headed toward Jackson to again pick up The Trace. Jackson, in the 1960s, was the site of some of the most violent confrontations during the Civil Rights struggle, including the killing of Medgar Evers. On the more positive side, Ridgeland, just north, is also the site of the Bill Waller Crafts Center just off the NTP, highlighting the works of some of the state’s artists.

We overnighted at Jeff Busby campground, named after the Congressman who introduced the bill that began the parkway. The campground’s 18 sites also are first-come and free. You’re about halfway to Nashville, at mile 193.1.

Shelves are full at the Bill Waller Crafts Center along the Trace near Jackson.

Day Four

There are several stops between here and Music City, including an odd one, a music heritage one, and a historical one. At mile 233.1 is the odd one, the Witch Dance picnic area. According to legend, witches gathered here to dance. Also, according to the legend, where they danced, no grass grew. There are hiking trails here, too.

Tupelo is, for Elvis fans, one of THE places to pay homage. It’s where he grew up to channel the South’s soulful and revival meeting sounds to the style he made famous. Visit the two-room home where he lived, as well as the museum dedicated to him. Tupelo is also the site of another Civil War battlefield and a parkway visitor center.

We headed west off the parkway to overnight at Piney Grove Campground, along the Tennessee-Tom Bigbee Waterway, a 141-site Corps of Engineers site with power, showers, and water.

Piney Grove Corps of Engineers Campground

Meriwether Lewis Burial Site

Some readers may remember our earlier stories detailing the travels of Lewis and Clark in the American West. That saga can begin for you along the parkway at mile 385.9. There, a stone obelisk stands over the grave of one of America’s greatest explorers, Meriwether Lewis. As President Jefferson’s secretary, his boss sent him and William Clark in 1803 to find the source of the Missouri River and reach the Pacific following the Louisiana Purchase. Two years later, they returned. His 1809 death was mysterious, but most accounts figure he committed suicide here while staying overnight at the Grinder’s  “stand” while traveling The Trace, as Lewis suffered from bouts of depression and possibly bipolar disorder.

There’s a free 32-site campground and a section of the Old Trace. See our account of the following part of the pair’s expedition, considered one of the greatest 19th-century exploits, here.

Instead of staying there, we pushed on to Nashville to explore that city from Two Rivers RV Park, which offered an inexpensive shuttle downtown. We’ll save that for another time!

American West explorer Meriwether Lewis’ burial site along The Trace at Grinder’s Stand. The broken obelisk signifies a life cut short.

Another view of the Old Trace near the Meriwether Lewis gravesite.

When You Go

There are three National Park Service-maintained campgrounds directly on the route and a few more for bicyclists. They’re all free and first come, first serve, with 22 to 32 wooded sites each. Campgrounds are spaced about 100 miles apart, so you could easily never leave the parkway, but you’ll then miss some can’t-miss historical sites. Most offer water and flush toilets but no power or dump stations. There are at least four more within a few miles of the parkway, both public and private, including that great Army Corps of Engineers facility on the Tenn-Tom Waterway, with all amenities.

The parkway has a 45 mph (70 kph) speed limit. There are many great turnouts and spots to stop and take in, so this route is for touring, not speeding. Besides the link to the National Park Service above, Natchez Trace Travel.com will also help you plan your trip. For more on the Mississippi’s plantations, visit plantationparade.com

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Going Somewhere Different Brings Challenges and Rewards

Some like it hot, but some don’t, and while some crave the ocean and beaches, others are drawn to rocks, caverns, desert, and odd-shaped prickly green cacti.

We are the former, not the latter. Each winter, we head south from our home state, Michigan, to Florida. Last winter, we decided to do something different, heading south, then west, to explore Texas, Arizona, and our final destination, California, where we would meet up with family. We experienced a few bumps along the trip – unexpected cold fronts, freezing temperatures, high winds, and of course, rain; days and days of rain. So much rain and cold that two weeks into our trip, I renamed it the “Day by Day” – as we routinely checked our weather apps and decided to head north or south to avoid winterizing our 2015.5 Unity Murphy Bed, “Lucky Us.”

This is the first of several stories we will share about our trip. Our journey starts in Texas, where we landed after spending five days in quarantine in our rig at Gulf State Park in Alabama and then one night in New Orleans after catching COVID in Kentucky. For more about NOLA, see our story here.

South Padre Island, Texas

South Padre Island loomed large as our beautiful, warm coastal destination when we planned this trip, and a different version of Florida’s Gulf Coast danced in my head as we headed west and south from NOLA. But, our weather app told us this was not to be: a cold front (locals call it a “blue norther”) bringing five days of rain, high winds, and cold weather, with night temps below freezing, changed our minds. So we sheltered at Mustang Island for two nights, waiting and hoping that conditions might change, all the while keeping our eyes on the night temps at the next planned stop after South Padre Island – San Antonio, which was also weathering the cold. The way we saw it, five days of bad weather in a city teeming with culture was better than five days sitting in our rig while parked near a beach. Once the night temps looked safe, we left Mustang Island, heading for San Antonio, leaving visions of seeing South Padre Island.

Bill insisted we had to visit the ocean at Mustang Island.

I agreed, just long enough to take a quick photo and run back to our rig.

Our cozy RV sheltered us from the weather at Mustang Island State Park.

San Antonio, Texas

San Antonio boasts a beautiful River Walk, always listed among the nation’s top 10, along with museums, shops, and more. It’s the perfect place to spend a few days in not-so-perfect weather, and we found plenty to see and do, including walking, shopping, and dining along the River Walk. We also visited the Briscoe Western Art Museum and San Antonio Botanical Gardens, saw a special Georgia O’Keefe exhibit at the McNay Art Museum, and explored The Alamo and Mission Concepcion, both part of the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park. The San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo was in town that week, and while there, we watched the Charreada. In this special demonstration, charros (Mexican cowboys) compete in riding and roping skills, along with breaks for traditional festive dancers performing to live music.

Walk along San Antonio’s River Walk, or hop aboard a colorful river barge for a tour.

Discover art, gardens, eateries, and more along the River Walk.

In addition to their indoor plant displays, the 11-acre Texas Native Trail at the San Antonio Botanical Gardens takes you through three distinct and diverse ecological regions of Texas: the Hill Country/Edwards Plateau, the East Texas Pineywoods, and South Texas.

Learn about the 1836 battle for Texan independence from Mexico at the Alamo, an 18th-century Spanish mission-turned-museum.

In addition to the Alamo, Mission Concepcion and three other missions make up the San Antonio Missions National Park.

Charros demonstrate Manganas a Caballo (roping from horseback) at the Charreada.

Dancers swing their colorful skirts, looking like flowers opening in spring while doing traditional dances at the Charreada.

Bustin’ in the Barn lets boys and girls, 4-7 years old, try their hand at mutton busting (sheep riding) at the San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo.

We stayed at Hidden Valley RV Resort once evening freezing temps were not a threat. This park was about a 30-minute drive into San Antonio.

Bill’s stint in the Army enabled us to stay at conveniently-located Fort Sam Houston RV Park a few days later.

Six days and five nights in San Antonio helped put the cold, rainy weather behind us. Next, follow us to Fredericksburg, Texas, Carlsbad Caverns, and New Mexico as we try to make our way to Arizona. Will we be able to follow our itinerary, or will we change our plans? Will our new western hats change our luck? More stories to follow.

 

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

A Roundup of Cool or Otherwise Useful Items for Your LTV

It’s that time again to have a look at what Denise and I have found, whether it be interesting looking, useful to us, or potentially interesting and useful to you, in our semi-annual gotta have it list. If you’re curious as to why we say semi-annual, you can check out all of the other lists we have created. We’ve got quite a few items this time so I will break this up into two editions. Some we’ve tried, and some we haven’t.

Going ‘Grandpa-Grandma-ping’ with Cabbunk

Cabbunk

Let’s start with the one that solved the problem of sleeping more than two people inside our 2015.5 Unity MB, Lucky Us. We bought our solution online from another LTV owner who solved the same issue. But what exactly was our issue? Getting our California grandkids, Kai and Noe, safely inside our unit at night while traveling with them in a trailing car with appropriate seats during the day. The inventor calls it “gramp-ing.” I’ll amend that to “grandpa-grandma-ping.”

The system is called a Cabbunk, invented and patented in England by Richard Olphin. Unitys need a “large” size, and Wonders are probably the same. Here’s how it works: turn the driver and passenger seats backward, slip the Cubbunk over the driver and passenger seat headrests, and anchor with ingenious cantilevered straps and two rods that make the bunks stand up on their own. There is no need for any interior modification. They come in single or double bunks and can hold a couple of hundred pounds.

It took a bit of figuring out where to put the rods and straps, but once we got it, it worked every time, and Kai and Noe loved it. We loved it because there is no need for anyone to sleep outside, especially if you’re in grizzly country. It’s about $400, calculated in British pounds, or $600 from here in the states.  Here’s a link to the overseas site. We highly recommend Cabbunk.

Batteries, Chargers, and More

We use small battery packs, which we charge when on the road or when plugged in, but for boondockers, powering some items can be limiting. Shell and licensee partner Sky Intelligent presents the all-in-one solution to technology addicts whose time outdoors is often restricted to the duration of their battery life. It’s big at nearly 15 pounds but can charge devices repeatedly. It was around $400.

Here’s another portable charger that charges s-l-o-w-l-y with solar, but that panel helps keep up with using either our older MyCharge charger or our new Blavor, aka the Big Orange. We can plug our phones in to either of these and be good to go all day. Increased stored power capacity changes on these about every six months, so watch for them to have more in the future. Our Blavor was around $60 on Amazon.

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A combo charger and LED string light that we use to keep critters from under our hood are now sold by M-powerd. The 18-foot cord features 20 lights with four power settings plus a couple of charging outlets, and it’s all solar-powered or charged with a USB cord. We used ours in the Arizona desert last spring, along with Fresh Cab natural repellant packets. Better safe than sorry. The light is about $38 at REI but is sold elsewhere, sometimes for more. Fresh Cab is available at many outlets like ACE and Tractor Supply.

Here’s another triple-use item that also can be a charger. It’s a “hybrid” flashlight from XfinityX1. It comes with both a rechargeable battery and a sleeve for regular batteries, rechargeable or otherwise. This compact flashlight can also be used to recharge other items. It comes in four levels of brightness. Prices start at $59 with everything included.

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‘Watching’ Time

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Don’t get me wrong; I like my Apple Watch because it’s more than a watch. It will tell me the weather, show my workout status, and will even auto-alert authorities if I fall or am in a crash. But some don’t want that, so here’s one alternative among myriad wrist timepieces out there. It’s the GLA Watch. It’s endorsed by the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association (yup, that is a thing), and this stainless steel China-sourced beauty is said to be water “resistant” down to 600-plus feet. I’d never think of giving up my current “watch,” but this one may be for you for $250 at Amazon and $175 at Walmart.

Floater Glasses, Eyewear Straps

We’re often in a boat, and besides the worry of dumping my phone overboard (keep it in your pants pocket, Bill), there’s also my prescription sunglasses. I take care of that issue with my Chums eyeglass retainers for about $8, but some may not like wearing those. Enter floating sunglasses from Blender’s eyewear. The Float 20 Collection is anti-salt coated to protect against corrosion, polarized, and yup, they float.

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Puffer Hug

Camping in Florida in February sometimes means that the night air chills down even when around a campfire. One solution that packs compactly is the Puffer Hug, a combo shawl/mini-blanket that you can shoulder-wrap, use as a scarf or a lap, or roll to make a makeshift pillow, and it features pockets. It’s about $40 at Amazon.

Old Trapper Jerky

Okay, you’ve got the fire going and a Puffer hug shawl drawn across your shoulders. Next up is a tasty and healthier snack than munching on the usual. Pass the family-size bag of Oregon-based Old Trapper beef jerky, please. This jerky is surprisingly tender, unlike others that hint of a rawhide chew. Flavors include traditional, teriyaki, peppered, and spicy, available at outlets like Walmart and CVS stores.

Twisty Sheets No More

You’ve surely experienced this at a laundromat on the road. You think your bed sheets are dry at the end of the cycle when they’re so twisted in a knot around other clothes that nothing is actually dry. Enter Wad-Free, also available at Amazon for about $20. Put each sheet corner in the slots of this tiny square, and they’ll never tangle. We’ve tried it, and it works.

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Keep Odor Out Of Clothes, ‘Swiffly’

Spray Swiff on those sheets you just cleaned with your Wad-Free, and also on those clothes you may reuse when on the road. It keeps everything odor-free and lasts for up to five washes. Swiff is made from gall nuts combined and a small amount of silver, which also has been used to keep outdoor gear fresh for long periods. Your traveling partner will love it.

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Keep Biting Bugs Out Too

When I’m outside for long periods in summer, you’ll nearly always see me with a lightweight Simms Bug Stopper hoodie over my shirt. The repellant survives multiple washings, and you can recharge with permethrin spray. Apparel maker Forloh has done it one better, combining the same Insect Shield that’s in my fishing hoodie with odor-prevention built-in.

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Voormi Jackets

This wool jacket by Voormi is unlike any other wool garment you may have worn. It’s made with a “surface-hardened” thermal wool, a thin layer of wool reinforced with nylon, and features a water-repellent coating. It all makes for an extremely lightweight all-season jacket with a hoodie built in. It is expensive at around $270, but if it takes the place of a couple of other items in your RV, is easily packable, and looks great, it may be for you.

Personalize A Pillow

Here’s a great idea to create some pillows for your RV or home with images of your favorite photos, from your pet to a campsite. Send a photo to CanvasPeople, choose a pillow, and you’re done for as little as $15.

Can’t Bear to be Without Bear Spray

A few years ago, while at our campsite near Banff/Lake Louise, I looked out the side window to watch two grizzly cubs next to our LTV run into the woods where we were sure mom, the protector, was watching. We didn’t go out. Later, rangers taped off the footbridge across a tributary of the Bow River. Meaning, don’t EVEN think about going there. That’s why we now always carry bear spray in grizzly country. We currently have the Frontiersman spray by Sabre in our rig. Family-owned Sabre also makes noise-making devices like air horns and other personal protection sprays that could come in handy for boondockers. The cost is about $40 on Amazon.

‘Moon’ The Campsite

No, not that. We’ve discovered a great item for owners who don’t want to extend their awning or want another choice to expand their outdoor living space, and yes, for those who are awning-averse, they can be used on your LTV using add-on adhesive anchors that could even be attached to the awning front. We tried my son’s on our LTV, and it works. This item is made by Moon Fabrications, which also makes a lightweight “wall” that attaches to the shade for more sun protection.

Moonshade also works on LTVs with optional adhesive-attached connectors.

Is it an E-bike or a ‘Motor Bike’?

I always try to mention at least one e-bike in these lists since there is so much interest, and you knew this was coming. Enter the 72-volt Scrambler from California’s Vintage Electric Bikes. This bike can travel up to 40 mph (64kph) and is controlled by a thumb throttle accessing five speeds. Its other models putt along at the normal 20-26 mph with a 49-75-mile range. This 88-pound two-wheeler may strain your bike carrier, especially with two. You’ll pay upwards of $5,500 each. Me? I’m still waiting for a much lighter version, and so far, like the Wing. We still prefer pedal power, however, but that may change.

Seasoned motorbike riders have an experiential edge here. If you’re new to e-bikes, remember to start slowly in a large open lot, especially learning to stop without thinking. Take it from one couple who recently purchased e-bikes. When she fell, she shattered an elbow. E-bikes often take as much skill as motorcycles, are far faster than pedal bikes, and certain power classes must be ridden on roads, meaning in traffic. Rules vary by locale, so pay attention and choose wisely.

‘Grandtoddler’s’ Play Pants

Okay, you’re on grandkid watch, including the multiple falls toddlers take. Your goal is to return said kids to their parents relatively unscathed. Enter Sandra Aris play pants, perfect for beginning walkers because they have extra padding in the bottom and knees, so each landing is a little softer, and each adventure crawl is a little kinder.

Colors are inventive, come in sizes from six months to 3T, are handmade and washable, and are also “hand-me-downable” because they’re inspired by rugged materials used in motorcycle and ski gear. They make great gifts as well.

But that’s enough for now. We’ll be back with that pre-holiday second part soon.

Please note: The recommendations expressed in this article are those of the author(s) and are not necessarily those of Leisure Travel Vans.

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Experience New Orleans: Louisiana’s Gem on the Mississippi

Most RV trips are centered around getting away to picturesque locations to see wildlife, hike trails, and view amazing sunsets, but sometimes there might be a big city filled with culture, cuisine, and celebrations along your travels. New Orleans is one of those places that, if you’re driving near, you’ll want to visit. We’ve visited “the Big Easy,” or the “Crescent City,” twice in our 2015.5 Leisure MB “Lucky Us,” and want to share a few tips on where to stay, a few things to do, and some of our favorite restaurants.

During our last visit, we even discovered a place to boondock and how to pronounce New Orleans! It’s not N’awlins or New Or-lee-ins; locals pronounce it New Or-lins (like lens).

Getting There

When visiting a big city, the devil’s in the details. Study maps and apps for your best route and if possible, avoid driving during rush hour. The last time we went, we had to deal with road construction, including bridge and road closures.

Where to Stay

There are several campgrounds in or near New Orleans, and we’ve stayed at two, each with distinct advantages. In the heart of the city, you have French Quarter RV Resort – an easy walk to Bourbon Street, you can visit many of the attractions you’ll want to see with the convenience of being able to go return to your RV to freshen up or take a break. Location is everything here, and you’ll pay top dollar to stay at this gated, secured resort.

Just off the freeway and just blocks from Bourbon Street, French Quarter RV Resort provides a convenient, secure location.

For a quieter choice, there is New Orleans RV Resort and Marina – formerly the Ponchatrain Landing RV Resort. This location will cost a bit less and gets you away from the lights and noise. A shuttle service is available to transport you the 12-minute ride into town. The park provides modern bathrooms and a pool.

Boondocking is also an option! The first day we stayed at the French Quarter RV Resort, we noticed a number of RVs parked in the public parking lot at 1205 St. Louis Street. We talked to one of the boondockers, who indicated he stayed there for about $10 overnight with no issues.

A few RVs parked overnight at the lot near the French Quarter RV Resort.

Things to Do

You can go to New Orleans during Mardi Gras to celebrate its late-winter carnival with jubilant parades, dancing, crowds, celebrations, and nightlife, but if you want to avoid the revelry, study your calendar and go a different time. There is still plenty to do, from walking Bourbon Street, taking ghost, vampire, or haunted tours, riverboat rides, and foodie walking tours. You can also just stroll around, seek out street musicians, or plan an evening at one of the many music venues, including Preservation Hall.

Touristy shops, bars, music venues, restaurants, and more dot the French Quarter. Listen to the street musicians, pick up a frozen daiquiri to go, and bring home some Mardi Gras memories. After walking Bourbon Street and the French Quarter, be sure to see the riverfront.

Skillet-seared bluefin tuna (image courtesy of: https://www.commanderspalace.com/)

National World War II Museum

Whether you are a history buff or not, be sure you plan to spend at least a few hours, if not most of a day, at the National World War II Museum, an immersive experience that “tells the story of the American experience in the war that changed the world—why it was fought, how it was won, and what it means today – so that all generations will understand the price of freedom and be inspired by what they learn.” This is New Orleans’ top-rated tourist attraction and has been designated by U.S. Congress as America’s official World War II museum. You will experience all theaters of the war through exhibits, multi-media experiences, and thousands of personal accounts.

Displays bring you up close and personal to what soldiers experienced during the war.

This C-47’s first combat mission was on D-Day. This and many other planes are displayed at the museum.

Dining: Cajun, Creole, or Deep Fried?

Court of Two Sisters

You can find just about anything you want here, from exquisite formal dining to casual bar food. The first time we visited, we made reservations for dinner at the Commander’s Palace and breakfast at Brennan’s. While strolling the French Quarter, we happened upon a courtyard restaurant playing live music. “Care to have brunch here?” the friendly staffer asked. Of course! That’s how we found the Court of Two Sisters, charming vine-covered outdoor patio seating, live jazz, and a delicious brunch buffet featuring Creole and Cajun cuisine. Go, and you’ll learn about Emma and Bertha, sisters and shopkeepers who ran a notions shop long ago in the French Quarter.

Call ahead to request outdoor seating.

Shrimp leads the options at the cold buffet.

Mimosas? Yes, Please! Eggs Benedict? Of Course!

Commander’s Palace

A New Orleans landmark since 1893 is Commander’s Palace, located in the Garden District and is known for its award-winning food and is touted as the “go-to destination for Haute Creole cuisine” and New Orleans’s “best restaurant.” According to its website, renowned chefs, including Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, Jamie Shannon, Meg Bickford, and more, have made this restaurant the world-class place it is today. Mississippi blueberry glazed pork belly, turtle soup, wild Louisiana white shrimp, tangy bacon, and apple cider braised cabbage are among the menu choices. It will be hard to choose between Creole bread pudding souffle, summer peach coffee cake, and, of course, southern-style pecan pie à la mode for dessert. There’s a dress code here, so please check the website for specifics. (Images below courtesy of   https://www.commanderspalace.com/) 

Tasso brined duroc pork chop

Turtle soup

Shrimp and tasso henican

Brennan’s

Established in 1946, Brennan’s blends Creole traditions with modern New Orleans flair. Its breakfast and lunch menu features turtle soup, milk and honey blintz, tomato and melon gazpacho, and a variety of egg dishes, such as eggs Hussarde, eggs Sardou, artisanal eggs Benedict, and eggs St. Charles. Omelette à la creole and paneed Lousiana rabbit are also among the offerings. Bananas Foster was invented here, so save room for this treat.

Brunch for four at our table, clockwise from upper left: Eggs Frattau, omelette à la Creole, eggs St. Charles, and eggs Hussarde.

Our server ignites bananas foster before serving.

Bananas Foster – created at Brennan’s – vanilla ice cream, bananas, and a sauce made with butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, dark rum, and banana liqueur.

A Nearby Must-See

Once you leave New Orleans, plan to stop and experience the Whitney Plantation, which has an exclusive focus on slavery from the slave’s point of view and is about 45 minutes west of New Orleans. Exhibits, stories, memorials, and artwork will pull at your heart as you discover how generations of Africans enslaved here maintained crops of indigo, rice, and sugar for their owners. More than 350 slaves once lived here.

Plantation owner’s home

Slave cabin

Discover life as a child slave by reading their stories.

When You Go

Visiting a big city can be exhilarating and exhausting. Be sure to give yourself enough time to experience all New Orleans offers. Whether you want to experience world-class meals, music, nightlife, or history, it’s all here at The Big Easy.

Bourbon Street

French Quarter decorated for Mardi Gras.

Sunsets, Sand, Water: Perfect Getaway

When your home state boasts the longest shoreline of any state except Alaska, you tour there. When your home state has a lake that’s 118 miles wide, you head to its shores. When that lake hosts the largest freshwater sand dunes in the world, you vacation there.

I’m not talking about Florida, California, or Hawaii. I’m talking about Michigan. The state features the world’s longest freshwater shoreline in the world at 3,288 miles (5,292 kilometers). Yes, freshwater – water without salt, jellyfish, and other threatening creatures. Specifically, I’m in love with Lake Michigan, which ranks third among the Great Lakes in size, and sixth among all freshwater lakes in the world. The largest freshwater sand dunes in the world line the shores of Lady M. Though the uninitiated, gazing out at Lake Michigan typically garners responses like “geez, you can’t see any land from here,” “wow, it’s as big as an ocean,” and “I didn’t have to shower off after a swim.” Lake Michigan’s eastern shoreline is 1,638 miles (2,636 kilometers) long, with all but 45 miles (72 kilometers) of it in Michigan. If you prefer sunsets to sunrises, it will not disappoint.

Most summers, we carve out time to spend along the shores of this gorgeously grand lake spotted with quaint beach towns, campgrounds, and eateries. It’s just not summer without a trip to Lady M’s shores in our 2015.5 Leisure Unity MB, “Lucky Us.” Here, I’ll take you to three of my top stops along Michigan’s western shore: Grand Haven, Sleeping Bear Dunes, and Petoskey.

Grand Haven

My favorite Michigan beach town, located about one-third of the way up the Lake Michigan coast, is Grand Haven. Known as Coast Guard City USA, this town of more than 10,000 hosts many annual festivals and events, including their Kite Festival, Art Festival, Fourth of July Fireworks, and the nationally known Grand Haven Coast Guard Festival. Summers are busy here; a musical fountain provides a synchronized light and water show nightly from Memorial Day through to Labor Day and the Lakeshore Trolley provides easy transit from the day after Memorial Day to Labor Day Weekend within the town and nearby Spring Lake.

Grand Haven State Park‘s beautiful half-mile beach is known for its “singing sand,” the unusual “squeak, squeak” you’ll hear as your feet pad along the ground. Walk along the beach as well as the 1.5-mile boardwalk that hugs the Grand River from the middle of town out to the historic 1839 lighthouse at the end of the pier. Stroll the boardwalk in the morning, in the afternoon, and in the evening: morning for the quiet solitude; mid-day to watch the people and the boats, including fishing charters, speedboats, and sailboats; and evening for the sunsets. You’ll be tempted by the ice cream shops (our favorite is Sweet Temptations), restaurants, and snack shops along the way. If a storm is on the radar, please be mindful of the dangers of venturing onto this and other piers along Lake Michigan: powerful waves can and have knocked people into the water with disastrous results.

Grand Haven State Park, right on the beach, offers easy access to everything Grand Haven – the boardwalk, pier, restaurants, and more. The Lakeshore Trolley takes you right into town, or you can choose to ride your bike. Yup, it’s crowded in the summer, and you’ll feel like you are camping in a parking lot, but, you have unlimited opportunities to walk the beach and pier to catch that just perfect sunset, people watch, or gaze at the boats going by. If you want to stay here, plan to book your stay as soon as the sites open, as the demand is high to stay at this park.

Other options are to stay at some of the local private campgrounds or at P.J. Hoffmaster State Park, a little more than eight miles away, where you can get away from the crowds to enjoy a wooded, serene campground, quiet beach, and stunning sunsets. Several private campgrounds are also located along M-31. The downside of not staying at Grand Haven State Park is driving into Grand Haven and finding parking, especially in the summer or during an event.

You’re more likely to find a site off the lake. Campsites are tight at this popular park.

A Great Lakes freighter comes up the Grand River into Grand Haven.

Walk to the boardwalk from Grand Haven State Park to catch a sunset like this one.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Next, visit Sleeping Bear Dune National Lakeshore. Plan to spend a few nights at the D.H. Day Campground, with easy access to the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, a 22-mile hard surface trail that takes you to various attractions within the park, as well as nearby Glen Arbor, a quaint “up-north” town with shops and restaurants. Take in spectacular views from steep sand bluffs towering more than 450 feet above Lake Michigan and venture through more than 100 miles (161 kilometers) of hiking trails. Camping is also available at the Platte River Campground, which provides access to the Platte River as it empties into Lake Michigan. Be sure to bring your paddleboard or kayak or visit Riverside Canoes to rent a vessel to float down the Platte River.

Our shady site at D.H. Day Campground.

The Heritage Trail runs right along the campground. Take a ride to Glen Arbor for lunch.

Glen Arbor offers eateries and shopping.

A drive along 7.4-mile Pierce Stocking Drive is a must if you are at Sleeping Bear Dunes. Bring a picnic and plan to spend the day here as you stop at the spectacular overlooks or hike one of the trails.

A short walk brings you to one of the most dramatic overlooks along Pierce Stocking Drive.

Photo op on the bluff? Yes, please!

Petoskey

Your next stop is Petoskey, a two-hour drive east and then north along Lake Michigan’s coast. Tip: if this is your first time in the area, break up this trip and stay one night (or two) at Traverse City State Park and explore the Leelanau Peninsula and TC itself. Another tip: On your way to Traverse City, stop at Moomers Homemade Ice Cream, which was once voted the best ice cream in the country. But back to Petoskey, this is a cute coastal town nestled in Little Traverse Bay. Stay at Petoskey State Park, where you can explore its mile-long beach to search for local Petoskey stones during the day or take in a sunset early evening. Just three miles northeast of the city of Petoskey and six miles south of Harbor Springs, this park is perfect for cyclists with the Little Traverse Wheelway, a 26-mile (41-kilometer) trail that follows the spectacular Lake Michigan shoreline from Charlevoix to Harbor Springs just outside the park entrance, and the North Western State Trail, a 32-mile (51-kilometer) inland trail connecting Petoskey and Mackinaw City.

Campsites at Petoskey State Park give easy access to the beach and the Little Traverse Wheelway.

Bike the Little Traverse Wheelway to Petoskey, where you can stop at Sunset Park overlooking Little Traverse Bay.

Bayfront Park, Petoskey

Take in a sunset on Little Traverse Bay from Petoskey State Park.

Michigan’s west coast is dotted with friendly beach towns, piers, and campgrounds where you can discover local shops and restaurants, spectacular sunsets, and more. If you’ve never been here, plan to add Michigan to your bucket list. You won’t be disappointed.

When You Go

Check your destinations for festivals and events, especially if you plan a trip in the summer. If you want to avoid crowds, consider visiting in late spring or early fall. Be aware that some towns and drives, such as Pierce Stocking Drive, can experience bumper-to-bumper traffic during peak autumn colors on weekends. In addition to websites for Grand Haven, Sleeping Bear Dunes, Glen Arbor, Traverse City, and Petoskey, you can find information at Michigan Beachtowns and Pure Michigan.

Editor’s Note: Bill and Denise Semion are members of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

From da West Border to da Center

Hey, dere! Been a while dere eh?

Well, we’re back, with the last installment of our region-by-region tour of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, called da U.P., which is a mix of rich farmland to deep, enveloping forest, spectacular shorelines to spectacular sand dunes, and contains some of the most rugged country and some of the most beautiful campgrounds in the eastern United States. It’s been our fortune to have visited the U.P. many times. I’ve been coming here since I was a kid, at first aboard car ferries that once connected the peninsulas before the Mackinac Bridge opened in 1957. We hope you’ll use these three parts in the collection of blogs to plan your own U.P. adventure. Here we go!

When we last left you, we were in the beautiful, rocky Keweenaw Peninsula which made several mine owners multi-millionaires with its fabulous cache of more than 10.5 BILLION pounds of copper that was extracted from the mines. Before that, we were in the eastern U.P. Now, before you leave, you may want to get more of an up-close view of what the Keweenaw has in store by booking a mountain bike, kayak, or another tour at Keweenaw Adventures.

Now, let’s trundle down the Keweenaw and head to Houghton on U.S. 41, then curl west a bit on Michigan Highway 26 or M-26 for short. It will take you through former mining communities and past Twin Lakes State Park, poised on two lakes, imagine that. Stay the night or push on towards the former paper mill town of Ontonagon (Onta-Noggin). This town has seen both boom and bust but is still considered the gateway to Michigan’s largest state park. It’s also where the Ontonagon River (which begins to the south at a lake we’ll also visit) joins Lake Superior. Ontonagon Township Park is on the Lake Superior Shore and is also a great overnight camping destination and gets you ready for tomorrow.

Da Porkies

Head west, through the town of Silver City, where I spent a few summers and falls with my cousin, also named Bill, as a kid. Just beyond is Union Bay, the main campground for what’s officially the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. Begin at the state park’s visitor center near Silver City. You’ll learn it’s so-named because wilderness it is. All 60,000 acres, 35,000 acres of which is old growth, forest, and the largest uncut hardwood/hemlock stretch in the Great Lakes.

Moonrise at Union Bay Campground in the Porkies.

Lake of Clouds in the Porkies. Hike beyond the rise on the right and you’re rewarded with a view of Mirror Lake.

The Silver City area is also home to the park’s first campground, Union Bay, with access to Lake Superior, we as kids would run from the cold lake to warm up in the brook entering the lake. You can also hike more than 90-plus miles of trails, and stay overnight in the park’s rustic lakeside cabins including one not far from the overlook where your closest neighbor may be a black bear, wolf, and yes, porcupine. You can also soak in the view from Lake of the Clouds overlook, a rocky promontory that is especially spectacular in fall, with the Carp River below. Fish also trout rivers like lake-run steelhead in early spring. There’s also an annual music festival here each August.

Another activity is an easy hike that will take you to Lake of the Clouds and a few miles further is Mirror Lake. The park recently added a number of amenities and improvements to its downhill ski area including dining, bike rentals, and trails, plus kayaking tours and rentals. Read about it here.

Da Ironwood Area

At the park’s western boundary is one of a series of waterfalls on the tumbling Presque Isle River which is a short walk from Presque Isle Road. You’ll be looking at several of the 200-plus falls that grace the peninsula, many at the rocky western end. The area is also home to several downhill ski resorts that if you visit in winter, will give you an experience that’s about as close to a western ski resort as you’ll find in the Midwest, despite the obvious vertical height difference, and certain Minnesota resorts notwithstanding. Your reward at the end of the drive is the park’s more primitive Presque Isle River campground and a beautiful view of the lake. But wait, there’s more. Head south on Forest Road 117, west on U.S. 2 from Wakefield, then look for the signs for the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, one of the first such byways with that designation. It follows the Black River on its way to Superior and has stops at six falls and at the end another spot to overnight at the Black River National Forest Campground. You’re also rewarded with a stroll across the suspension bridge above the river mouth and on both drives are beautiful photo ops.

One of several falls along the Black River Scenic Byway

The next day on the way out the same road, you may want to stop at Copper Peak. What is it? Only the world’s largest vertical ski jump, so high the jumpers were called sky flyers, in winter. The platform now provides the highest, unobstructed, 360-degree vista in the Midwest, overlooking nearly 40 miles in every direction. Take the chairlift up, then the elevator even farther up for that view, again, unbelievable during fall color season. There’s also a mountain bike trail.

Head back to Bessemer, named for a steel-making process, and you know you’ve left copper behind and you’re now back in iron ore country. This is part of the region where the iron ore boom began when Douglass Houghton noticed his compass swinging wildly, and discovered the ore closer to Marquette. Make a note of the nearby downhill ski areas also offering summer activities, as well as cross-country ski trails.

Continue west past some of the region’s ski areas to Ironwood, on the Wisconsin Border. Ironwood is a former rip-roaring mining town that like Hurley, WI, just across the state line, and down the middle of the street, has tamed, with Hurley still less tame than Ironwood.

While you’re here, pick up a hat or other clothing here at the home of Stormy Cromer hats, the kind Elmer Fudd wears. Take a tour of the factory and learn the history of the inventor and the hat Stormy created.

‘Lake Go’

Now let’s backtrack a bit on U.S. 2 to Wakefield, where you’ll swing southeast for a bit. Turn north onto M-64 and on your right will appear Lake Gogebic, the U.P’s largest inland water, so big it’s in two counties. On it, stay at Lake Gogebic State Park, or farther north at Ontonagon County Park, or at the south end, Gogebic County Park.

The Lake Gogebic State Park shoreline.

Remember the Ontonagon River? It starts here.

Tim Long, who with wife Sarah owns the Timbers Resort at the lake’s north end, will take you walleye fishing for these beauties.

Another Gogebic walleye. Note the dark color due to the lake’s natural, tree-produced tannins.

Charter a fishing trip at nearby Timbers Resort, which also has a tiny rustic camp area. Three great lakeside places for eats: The Root Cellar and Gogebic Lodge. Or for fun, you can sit on the westernmost bar stool in the eastern time zone at the Hoop N Holler. Maybe you can even talk them into whipping up a batch of sea salt wings, most of the time served only in winter.

Iron River to Escanaba

Continue on U.S. 2 towards Iron River, where one of the peninsula’s best-rated trout streams flows. Next door is Caspian, the near-ghost mining town that’s home to the Iron County Historical Museum, detailing the history of the area, and the former Caspian Mine, which gave up more than 6.6 million tons of iron ore during its life.

Continue east through lake country past scores of inviting resorts and Native American burial ground near the campground at Pentoga Park next to Chicagoan Lake, or travel on to Bewabic State Park near Crystal Falls. Now leave US 2 for my favorite little area cutoff jaunt. Take M-69, a curvy two-lane that meanders past even more lakes, resorts, and forest campgrounds. Or, you can either detour via M-95 to Iron Mountain and take a trip into the old Iron Mountain Iron Mine, which has been an attraction here for more than 60 years. Look at a paper map and you’ll see. We’ll continue on M-69 before curving towards Escanaba and northern Lake Michigan, and rejoining U.S. 2 eastbound. You’re now along Lake Michigan. Escanaba is home to a unique restaurant, Swedish Pantry, and you owe it to stop for special thin pancakes and baked goods.

Don’t forget Dobber’s Pasties, one of the U.P.’s best, which also sells cute Yooper wear.

Continue on U.S. 2 along Bay de Noc, first north, then east at Rapid River, home to Rapid River Knifeworks for high-quality custom cutlery.

You’re on the way back now to Manistique, where you can now access the first two parts of this road trip saga to plan your circle tour of Da U.P. You can bet that Denise and I will be here again soon in our 2015.5 Unity MB, ‘Lucky Us’. See you on our next adventure, and watch out for those darn Yooperland Border Patrollers!