Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

When Janet and I set out in our Unity FX, our goal is to see something new and enjoy the outdoors. One of those ways of enjoying the outdoors is to sit around our portable fire pit in the evenings.

We have a propane fire pit; however, I know so many folks who love their wood-burning pits, which have come a long way lately in both design and size. So in this story, I will discuss the different types of fire pits that can be used for an RV and the differences between propane and wood-burning fire pits.

Propane Fire Pits

Propane fire pits are an excellent option for RVers who want a hassle-free fire pit experience. These fire pits are powered by propane, a clean-burning fuel that produces no smoke or ash. The most significant advantage of propane fire pits is their convenience. They are easy to start, require no maintenance, and can be turned off with the flick of a switch. And many RVs have an external propane port to attach your fire pit to your onboard propane easily.

The propane fire pit we carry is from BLUU, and it has been fantastic. The construction is durable, lights easily, and has a cast iron grate for cooking or heating up a kettle. We’ve been really happy with the BLUU, but if you are looking for something even smaller, check out the Ignik FireCan.

Ignik’s super compact fire can is a popular choice that makes high-quality propane fire solutions that will fit in most RV storage bays. Their fire pits come with a built-in regulator and an eight-foot hose that connects to standard propane bottles, making them easy to use and transport. Ignik’s fire pits also feature a stainless steel burner that produces up to 38,000 BTUs of heat, making them ideal for chilly nights.

One of the downsides of propane fire pits is that they can be a bit more expensive to operate. Propane fuel is generally more expensive than wood, and you’ll need to refill your propane bottles periodically. However, if convenience is your top priority, propane fire pits are an excellent choice.

Also, many RVs (including our Leisure Travel Van) have regulated propane outlets. You must have a non-regulated fire pit (or hose) to work with the portable fire pit. (Regulated means that the propane output is limited, so having two regulators between your propane source and fire pit won’t allow enough propane to fuel the fire).

When we use our BLUU fire pit, we use the Ignik 10-pound propane bottle that allows us to carry our fire pit away from the RV and use anywhere we like. Interested in what we carry with us in our LTV? Check out PagosaSupply.Co

Wood-Burning Fire Pits

Wood-burning fire pits are a classic option that many RVers prefer. These fire pits burn wood, which is abundant, inexpensive, and widely available. One of the most significant advantages of wood-burning fire pits is the natural ambiance they provide. The crackling sound of burning wood and the smell of wood smoke can create a cozy, rustic atmosphere.

Solo Stove is a popular brand that makes high-quality wood-burning fire pits ideal for RV use. Their fire pits feature a unique design that maximizes airflow, resulting in a more efficient burn and less smoke. Solo Stove fire pits also feature a lightweight, portable design, making them easy to transport from one campsite to another. They even make a Solo Stove tabletop version for more storability.

One of the downsides of wood-burning fire pits is that they require more maintenance than propane fire pits. You’ll need to gather and store wood, start the fire, and regularly clean out the ashes. Wood-burning fire pits also produce smoke, which can be a nuisance for nearby campers or RVs. However, if you value the natural ambiance and low cost of wood fuel, a wood-burning fire pit may be the right choice.

Another downside of some wood-burning fire pits is the size can be too large for an outdoor storage bay of an RV, and the fire smell is not conducive for carrying inside your RV. That’s one of the reasons a Ford Maverick for a TOAD (tow vehicle) is an excellent choice for small RVs. The bed of the truck allows plenty of room for things like Solo Stoves.

Here are some other interesting wood-burning fire pits ready for RV travel:

• BioLite makes efficient wood-burning fire pits designed to reduce smoke and increase airflow. Their fire pits feature a lightweight, portable design and are ideal for eco-conscious RVers.
• Tiki makes stylish wood-burning fire pits that are perfect for creating a cozy atmosphere while camping. Their fire pits feature durable construction and a patented airflow system that reduces smoke.

Which Type of Fire Pit Is Better for RV Use?

Ultimately, the decision between a propane or wood-burning fire pit for RV use will depend on your priorities. If convenience and ease of use are your top priorities, a propane fire pit is an excellent choice. The BLUU and the Ignik fire pits are easy to use and transport and require minimal maintenance. Propane fire pits also produce no smoke or ash.

The BioLite fire pit is a completely different design, perfect for RVs.

If you value the natural ambiance and low cost of wood fuel, a wood-burning fire pit may be the better choice. Wood-burning fire pits are efficient and provide a classic campfire experience, but can be more difficult to transport, produce smoke, and require more maintenance which may not be ideal for all camping situations.

Just keep in mind your storage capacity may limit the size of the fire pit, but many small choices should fit in just about any RV.

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

As promised in the Fall 2022 edition of my Gotta Have It series, here’s Part Two of some cool items that might make sense for your LTV.

Soup(er)’s On

We planned to take and test at least one or two of these first items on our annual Florida trip, and so far, we like it a lot. It’s one of the most useful items we’ve run across in a while, called Souper Cubes. They’re food-grade silicon trays that come with compartments ranging from one-ounce to two-cup portions, great for pre-trip preparation of several meals that can fit either in our 2015.5 Unity’s fridge or freezer, and they can be put in an oven up to 415 degrees.

We plan to use them for soups and make-ahead meals like chili, pasta sauce, and more. They’ve made an appearance on the TV show Shark Tank, and as someone there thought as well, they look like a winner.

We’re taking these silicon freezer containers with us from now on. Sizes up to two cups.

Bike Bags

Speaking of Florida, we’ve been known to ride pedal bikes to the store for essentials rather than unhook and drive. To bring back our loot, we’ve relied on backpacks, but sometimes the stuff we buy doesn’t fit. We think we’ve found a couple of solutions.

If you’re a biker, you know what a pannier is. It’s a system, either one sack or two, that fits over a rack on your bike’s seat post for carrying things on longer trips, and it’s pronounced pan-yer.

North Street’s bags are made to attach to a bike rack over the rear wheel and are great for groceries. (Photo source: northstbags.com)

North Street Bags of Portland, Oregon, developed the Micro Pannier. Strapped to a rack with a three-point attachment system. The attachment points of the micro bag (pictured above) are two fixed hooks at the top, which fit over the tubing of a rear rack, and a hook on a bungee at the bottom to tension the system and keep it in place. This pannier is a perfect way to get groceries back to your campsite without the risk of crashing while balancing a plastic bag with one hand or draping it over your handlebars and hoping the bag doesn’t give way.

All of North Street’s offerings are made with recycled materials, are extremely water resistant, and each is made to order. Up to three hook sizes are available, depending on the model. Most pannier sizes are measured in liters, ranging from 14-liter micro panniers to 30 liters. There’s also a convenient grocery pannier with grab straps. Prices start around $60. They also make backpacks, handlebar packs, and other snappy items.

A bike basket bag from Portland Design Works. The company also sells add-ons like headlights and fenders. (Photo source: ridepdw.com)

Got a front basket? Both North Street, and another maker, Portland Design Works, make bags for front baskets that can expand what you can safely carry. PDW also sells other biking accessories, including headlights, fenders to avoid “skunk stripe syndrome,” and more. Check those out as well. Bags are about $50.

Lunch On The Road

Nearly everyone likes tuna salad, but not the mercury that may be present in some canned tuna. Products from Safe Catch are unique. Each tuna they sustainably catch is tested for contaminants, hand-packed, and comes in convenient compact containers for easy RV storage. They’re available at lots of stores, from Walmart to Kroger and more.

Elite tuna also comes in cans. (Photo source: safecatch.com)

Don’t Blow It

But if you do blow a bike tire on the road, here’s a great compact item that will get you going again quickly. It’s from Slime, makers of that liquid tube sealant. The kit contains levers to get it off the rim and put it back on without causing another leak, inflator, and patches. For a $15, it’s a great addition to your bike kit.

Whether you ride an e-bike or push pedals, a tube repair kit is always something you should carry.

Ride-Alongs

I know many RVers bring a mascot along, be they live like a cat or dog or like a stuffed animal. We once had a small bear dressed as a fly fisherman would. If you’re still looking or have grandkids or kids to entertain, a tiny tagalong from Myriderz might fit your space nicely. These critters ranging from cute elephants to rabbits and dogs would keep the young ones occupied on the way to your next destination or as an LTV mascot.

MyRiderz conveniently fits into cup holders. (Photo source: myriderz.com)

Underwater Speaker

Why I would want to listen to music through a speaker underwater, I don’t know. But the Barnacle Pro Bluetooth speaker promises you can. It’s also a stand-alone music player holding 2,000 songs. It’s waterproof, so that you can use it normally, too. It charges with a mini USB and is about the size of a hardball baseball. The cost is about $69. For its size, it has good sound quality. But, please, please don’t blast the volume and disturb others. Be nice!

A portable speaker from Speaqua can hold 2,000 songs and is Bluetooth equipped and waterproof.

Lookin’ Good On The Road

Lastly, let’s face it, we all want to look good, and these next items fall into the things one can carry in the medicine chest. Two Blithe Cosmetics products get great online reviews from users for both its serums and “vital treatments.” Both Korean-made items contain, among other things, fruit and other natural extracts, and their compact containers don’t take up a lot of room. If you believe these products make you look years or maybe at least weeks younger, they’re about $35 each. Blithe also sells other items like must-have reef-safe sunscreen. As the old commercial says, a little dab’ll do ya.

Blithe cosmetics are plant-based. (Photo source: blithecosmetic.com)

We’ll be back with another Gotta Have It soon!

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Editor’s note: The modification ideas on this page were submitted to Triple E Recreational Vehicles by an independent third party and has not been verified or tested by Triple E Recreational Vehicles. Please do your own research before implementing these, or any other modifications. You must always use a qualified professional to make any modifications to your vehicle, and ensure that any changes you make are safe, and in compliance with all applicable laws. Modifications may void certain aspects of your limited warranty, as well as affect resale values. Consult your warranty for details. Triple E Recreational Vehicles is not responsible or liable for any actions you take after viewing this page, or for any modifications you make to your vehicle.

Anyone who’s owned an RV for over five minutes probably has the “best” gadget or upgrade. As time goes by, more “bests” will emerge, and if you, dear reader, are like me, you’re always looking for other owners’ good ideas and recommendations to see if they can be applied to your rig and your way of camping. Heck, that’s why you’re reading this article because all of us are always looking for the next “best” thing.

Our “best” upgrade to our 2018 Unity FX ticks off a few of the more important boxes. It was relatively inexpensive, and I was able to install it myself without too much effort. It is a BIG improvement in safety, and overall, it makes driving more comfortable, which leads to us being more eager to be on the road. What is this “best” upgrade? It’s a rear camera setup.

Let’s face it; the LTV is a beautiful and amazing RV. It’s easy and small enough to drive around in, yet roomy to live in for extended periods, but one thing we quickly noticed was we don’t always have good situational awareness as we drive down the road. The side mirrors can be adjusted to cover the blind spots on your flanks mostly. But, when we added this backup camera, we have a close-up view of what we could potentially hit.

So, while there is a rearview mirror, and it’s our second nature to use that while driving, I quickly learned that what’s in my rearview mirror is not the road but rather the rear of my LTV and this didn’t tell me where traffic was or could be.

Nice to look at, but not very helpful when driving

After a few trips, I thought something must improve that view, so I started my research. Checking LTV forums, I found some people would keep their backup camera on all the time, with a slight shift, to try to see more of the road than the 12 inches behind the bumper. Internet searches turned up cameras with separate monitors, some connected wirelessly, although the monitors were big and bulky and suited more for giant Class A RVs. Neither of these options really fit what I was looking for, so I was pleased when I came across the mention of a rear camera where the display hung over the existing rearview mirror. This was what I was looking for. Now I needed to figure out how to install it.

The Main System

Luckily I didn’t have to figure this out on my own. On one of the LTV social media owner sites, I saw a post where the owner had selected all the parts needed to install the camera. I would love to give that owner all the credit here, but I’ve long since lost the post and can’t remember who made the post. If you’re that person, then I offer my whole-hearted thanks for what you did for me and for everyone else, maybe you can follow what I’m about to tell you.

The camera setup I picked was the VanTop H610. As this was a few years ago, there are probably newer models out there. My model isn’t even sold on Amazon anymore, but you can find it at Walmart and Best Buy. If you don’t like this one, there are many other brands (Wolfbox is one that comes up a lot in searches). These are the reasons I picked the one I did:

• The display hung over the existing mirror–right where I’m used to looking. It also had a 10-inch width and was a touch screen. There are ones with a 12-inch width, so depends on what you personally want.
• The camera itself had a wide field of view, showing everything behind me.
• The camera was small and looked easy to mount.
• It wasn’t too expensive and looked like I could install it myself.

Other features weren’t as important to me. It has a forward-facing camera, the ability to record video on a microSD card, and a “night-enhanced vision” for the front camera. All these may be features you want, but as I was getting this for a rearview mirror “replacement,” they were just add-ons for me. I suggest you look at many different models and brands as you may have different needs or desires. The bottom line is there’s a system to meet everyone’s needs.

The VanTop system I bought, which is similar to others, contains the display (with the integrated front-facing camera) to hang over the rearview mirror, a rear camera, a power cord that plugs into a cigarette lighter (do they still call it that?), and a cable to connect the rear camera to the display.

The Other Essentials

It seems the complete package, but an LTV is slightly longer than your average car, so an additional item needed was an extension cable. I used the 4-pin dash cam cable from YQMAJIM, which is 33 feet long and would give me plenty to work with to go from the camera at the back to the engine section. For whatever system you get, make sure the cable for the rear camera is at least 30 feet long, or else get an extension cable that will work with it. This may require a bit more research based on the system you’re getting or even a call to customer support to make sure you get the right connections (4-pin vs. 5-pin, etc.), but most of these rear camera systems are designed for cars, and you’ll need these extension cables for your RV.

Since the camera would be mounted to the back of the RV, the cable would have to run to the front.  There’s no way to run it inside the rig, so it must be routed under it. I also ordered 100 feet of ¼ inch “loom” protective coating to protect the cable from any breaks.  Add some good quality zip ties to secure the cable as it traversed the undercarriage, and I had what I needed to route the cable.

Since my extension cable only went to the engine section, I needed another extension cable to get up into the cab and to the actual display. I got a 10 ft cable, 2.5mm Male to Female 4 pin, also from YQMAJIM. As I said earlier, if the system you’re getting doesn’t have a long enough extension cable (either with the package or as an option), you may want to call their customer service to get the details of what will be needed.

Once all the parts arrived, the first thing I did, which I would recommend, was to connect everything before unspooling it all and make sure it all worked. Trust me on this–you don’t want to find you have a faulty camera or wiring after you’ve installed it all.

Installation

With everything checked out, it was time to install. I started at the back, figuring out where to mount the camera. I held the camera to different heights while my wife looked at the display to see the coverage area but, the fiberglass outer shell at the back offers only a few locations where mounting would be easy. Directly above the license plate turned out to be ideal. It was high enough (and centered) to give a full view of the area behind the RV, and on our 2018 Unity FX, that location has a gap between the outer and inner fiberglass that I could reach from below. Mounting the camera was easy with the provided screws and was the only time I did any drilling into the RV.

I hooked up the camera to its connector and then screwed it onto the back. I also put a lot of electrical tape around the connection to ensure it wouldn’t come loose and make it thicker than the hole. This way, if the mounting screws fail, the camera will hang and not fall completely off. So far, the camera has held up well. My only post-installation concern has been if we ever get an external storage box to mount on the hitch, it will likely block the camera. I guess I’ll have to figure out how to raise the camera if/when we ever get such a unit. If you already have external items on your hitch, you may want to look at mounting it higher.

With the camera mounted, and before running the cable, I put the extension cable inside its protective sheath. This is easier to do before connecting it all up. Then it was time to crawl under the RV and start routing it towards the front. If you haven’t spent much time under your rig, you may be surprised how many cables are under there. I didn’t have a set path and stuck to following existing cables as much as possible. This allowed me to zip-tie my cable to existing cables, struts, and connectors as much as possible.

It’s essential to ensure your cable is snug and doesn’t hang down under the rig. With the extension, I knew I had plenty to work with, so I didn’t have to take the most direct route. My end goal was the engine compartment on the driver’s side. I used a lot of zip ties to be as secure as possible.

Only missing the red shoes to be the Wicked Witch!

This was the longest part of the installation, as I didn’t want to rush it, and I did have to constantly re-position myself. Still, it only took a little over an hour. Once I got to the engine section, I coiled up what was left and then moved inside the cab. I hung the display up over the rearview mirror. Now I had two cables to route–the power and the rear camera. I connected them both to the display and then ran them up above the front window and behind the plastic to the driver’s edge of the window. Then I pushed them behind the plastic cover and down to the footwell of the driver’s side.

At this point, the two cables split. The power cable I routed above the pedals to the center console where it could be plugged in. Obviously, any excess wiring was gathered up, and I made sure no cables were hanging down where they could interfere with the driver’s foot. The camera cable needed to go into the engine section. On our Mercedes chassis are rubber seals in the footwell that cover up holes leading to the engine section. I made a slice in one of them and could easily push the cable through.

Hopefully, you also have these pass-throughs to the engine section

I still had a lot of excess cables, but there was plenty of room in the engine section. I coiled it up and securely tied it inside the compartment, ensuring the connections were tight.

Excess wiring and cables, all coiled up and secured in the engine bay

At this point, everything was connected and ready to go. I plugged the power into the cigarette lighter, turned on the engine, and had an image on my display. I did have to read the instruction manual on how to set it up with the date and time, default camera image (rear for me), etc. But the installation was over, and now we could test it on the road.

Much more helpful than seeing the dog

Wow, it sure does work well! The field of view is nice and wide, and with the side mirrors, there are zero blind spots. Best of all, glancing at the rearview mirror shows what’s behind me, and I am much more aware and confident when driving.

Conclusion

As I continue to follow forums and read articles like this, I’m well aware that rear camera options exist. Some people have installed systems with blind-spot monitors for the rear and side, and some hard-wire their systems to the battery, so they don’t have to worry about knocking the power adaptor loose and briefly losing the camera view (that’s happened to us a few times). Others also have rear parking assist lines or have a wireless camera (but be careful–it still needs power from somewhere to work).

There are multiple options for displays like ours besides the VanTop we got. You should pick whatever works best for you. But I would strongly suggest looking into getting something, and if you’re even halfway handy, this is not a difficult installation to do yourself. Some upgrades make it more comfortable to use the RV, and some make it safer. For us, this does both, and while we’ve done other things, big and small, to make the “Zephyr” our own, we both agree that this is, by far, the best upgrade we have done and make our trips more enjoyable.

Spring is just around the corner, and that means it’s time to start thinking about de-winterizing your Leisure Travel Van. If you’re a seasoned LTV owner or a new owner, you know that de-winterizing your Leisure Travel Van is essential in preparing for your travels.

Whether you have a Unity or a Wonder, this de-winterizing guide is meant for both coaches. Both the SOP (standard operating procedure) and step-by-step video are also available to guide you through the de-winterizing process so you can hit the road with confidence and enjoy all of the adventures that lie ahead.

Step 1: Inlet Filter Inspection

Grab your inlet filter and begin the inspection. Make sure two O-rings are still in place. If they are not in place or cracked or damaged, they must be replaced.

Step 2: Place Inlet Filter Back into the Hot Water Heater

Now that you’ve inspected the inlet filter for any damage, you can begin to place the filter into the hot water heater. After you’ve placed the inlet filter back into the water heater, close the pressure relief valve if it was left open.

Also, ensure the water heater is still in the bypass mode (Valves A, B, D, E CLOSED, Valve C OPEN).

Step 3: City Water Connection

Connect your LTV to a city water connection, and in your exterior utility center, make sure your ‘Winterize Valve’ is set to “NORMAL FLOW” and your ‘Water Fill Selector Valve’ is set to “NORMAL & CITY WATER.” After all of these steps, you can turn on the city water supply and head inside your coach to begin flushing out all of the water lines.

Step 4: Flush Out Water Lines

Inside the coach, turn on each faucet one at a time to allow water to flush from both the hot and the cold lines. Once the water coming through is clear, turn off the faucet. Don’t forget the toilet and exterior shower. After running all of the faucets and ensuring no pink fluid is running through the lines, open Valve D on the water heater for 5-10 seconds, which will flush the fluid out of the drain line, water will be pouring out from the bottom of the coach. When you are confident the water running out is clear, go ahead and turn Valve D back off.

Steps 5 and 6: Adjust Water Fill Selector Valve

Once the antifreeze has been flushed out of the water lines, set your Water Fill Selector Valve to “WATER TANK FILL ONLY” and fill the fresh water tank. Be sure to close the fresh water tank drain if you left it open during the winter!

Once the fresh water tank is full, disconnect the water hose, set your Water Fill Selector Valve back to “NORMAL & CITY WATER”, and turn on the water pump.

Step 7: Run the Faucets

Now that the water pump is on run the fresh water through all of the faucets again as you did in step 4 for a few moments.

Step 8: Re-install Water Filter Cartridge (Unity Only)

This step is for Unity owners only, as the Wonder does not have a built-in water filter. Turn the water pump off and open up a faucet to ensure there is no pressure in the system. You can then proceed to change the filter.

Step 9: Take the Water Heater off Bypass

Valves A, B, and E are OPEN, and Valves C and D are CLOSED. 

Now your Leisure Travel Van should be de-winterized, and you are ready to hit the road. It’s always important that you keep your coach in tip-top shape and ready for all seasons. If you are ever in need of professional help, contact the Service Department, and they will guide you along the de-winterizing process of your LTV.

Feature photo by: Franklin Beecham

Editor’s Note: This post is written by a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

Keep Your RV Tires in Tip-Top Shape

Before you hit the open road in your RV, it’s important to ensure that your tires are prepared and safe. A few simple steps can save you from tire-related hassles (not to mention costly repairs) down the line. In this article, we’ll share some best practices for tire safety so that your RV is ready for any adventure.

Janet and I regularly drive our Leisure Travel Van from Dallas to Pagosa Springs, CO, and tire safety is always at the top of my checklist.

Check Tire Pressure Regularly

Tire pressure is one of the most important things to check regarding RV tire safety. While some RVs have a TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system), many do not. So you should check your tire pressure daily before hitting the open road. In my Unity, I do not have a built-in TPMS, so I use a long stem pressure gauge equipped with a dual head chuck ideal for inner-style dual wheels and check pressures before every drive day.

Image source: https://www.amazon.com

Many people opt to add an aftermarket TPMS (which I use on my Airstream trailer) to add a convenient way to monitor your tire pressure and temperature. I use and recommend the TST brand.

While the Wonder’s Ford Transit chassis is equipped with a TPMS, the Unity’s Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis is not. If you opt to add an after-market TPMS, in most cases, you must equip your wheels with metal valves to keep your tires from leaking due to the added weight of the sensors. Seek a qualified tire shop to get this work done, as there is a potential for leakage if not installed properly.

Image source: https://www.amazon.com/

The correct PSI (pounds per square inch) will vary depending on the type of tire and manufacturer, so be sure to check your door sticker for specifics, not the on-tire PSI recommendation. Chassis manufacturers choose the correct pressure for each axle dependent upon the weight of the build and the tire manufacturer.

Always Come Prepared

Safety can’t be stressed enough with RV tires. Under-inflated tires are more likely to overheat, leading to blowouts or other dangerous situations. On the flip side, over-inflated tires put extra strain on suspension components and increase friction with the road surface, making them more prone to blowouts.

I never want to be unprepared, so I always carry a portable air compressor with us. With an RV, you can constantly change climates, thus changing your tire pressure, so it’s important to keep the correct PSI in all of your tires at all times.

Another reason to carry your own compressor is you never know when you will need to air up your tires. Even a short trip could spell disaster when your pressure isn’t what it should be. Also, I’ve been to many service stations where the tire inflation machine was not working, so don’t leave this to chance. The air compressor we use and highly recommend is the Viair 400P RV.

Inspect Tires Routinely

Inspecting your tires routinely is another key component of proper tire maintenance and safety. Check for visible signs of damage like cracks, bulges, punctures, or bald spots that could indicate wear and tear or air leaks. Before we leave on a drive day, I will check pressures and visually inspect every tire. It’s difficult to check the inner dually, so it is paramount to ensure the pressure is correct. If you find any issues while inspecting your tires, they should be taken care of immediately by a professional mechanic or tire shop.

I check the tire pressure each morning before we hit the road.

Safe Driving Habits

In addition to regularly checking and maintaining your RV’s tires, it’s also important to practice safe driving habits while on the open road. Avoid sudden stops or turns as much as possible (especially when carrying heavy loads), drive slowly around sharp corners or inclines/declines in elevation change, and avoid obstacles like potholes when possible, as these can cause significant damage even with properly maintained tires.

It’s also important not to overload! Exceeding weight limits puts undue strain on all components—including the tires—so stick within recommended guidelines whenever possible. I like to visit a CAT scale periodically to check our weight. Most truck stops have these scales, and I recommend checking your weight from time to time.

Replace Tires Every Five Years

When shopping for tires, remember that it’s important to invest in quality brands to ensure maximum performance, durability, and reliability. Many experts recommend replacing RV tires every five years regardless of mileage due to their heavy load capacity and frequent exposure to heat and UV rays. Set a regular maintenance schedule with your local dealership or mechanic to keep all components—including the tires—in peak condition!

Checking pressure levels regularly, inspecting for signs of wear, tear, and damage regularly, and replacing as needed/recommended by manufacturer guidelines; are all important elements in ensuring proper tire maintenance and safety while traveling in an RV.

Finally, ensure you use the right tires for your RV and driving conditions. Different RVs require different tire sizes and load/speed ratings to safely handle the vehicle’s weight, any cargo, and passengers’ weight. Be sure to do your due diligence before purchasing tires for your RV. Following these simple tips can help keep you and your passengers safe on the road while maximizing tire life expectancy at the same time. So, don’t forget—make sure those wheels are spinning safely before hitting the open road!

Note: Modifications may void certain aspects of your limited warranty, as well as affect resale values. Consult your warranty for details. Triple E Recreational Vehicles is not responsible or liable for any actions you take after viewing this page, or for any modifications you make to your vehicle. Please use a qualified professional to make any modifications to your vehicle, and ensure that any changes you make are safe, and in compliance with all applicable laws.

Once you reach temperatures of about 0 degrees Celsius, 32 degrees Fahrenheit, or below, it’s time to winterize your RV. Below are the steps for winterizing a Leisure Travel Van with a Truma AquaGo Comfort Plus water heater. For previous LTV models, read our instructions on winterizing with a Suburban Water Heater.

Why Should I Winterize My LTV?

Winterizing your RV is the act of removing water from water lines, holding tanks, and water heater that can freeze when temperatures go below freezing. The smallest amount of water left inside the systems could freeze, expand, and later cause damage to your RV. Taking the time to winterize your Leisure Travel Van will save you from having to pay high repair costs and will aid in keeping you out of the repair shop upon the arrival of spring.

Whether you have a Unity or a Wonder, this winterizing guide is meant for both coaches. Both the SOP (standard operating procedure) and step-by-step video are also available to guide you through the winterization process.

Step 1: Prep the Hot Water Heater

1. Beginning by shutting off your hot water heater.
   
2. After you have shut the water heater off, run water through a faucet hotline for 30-second to speed up the cooling of the hot water heater. Be sure the water heater is cool to the touch to prevent scalding injury.
3. Shut off the water supply.
4. Open the hot and cold water lines of any sink faucet to relieve any pressure.
   
5. Again, be sure the water heater is cool to the touch. The pressure relief valve can be used to release any remaining pressure in the water.
6. Open the yellow drain lever to drain the water from the water heater.
   

Step 2: Filters

1. Remove the inlet filter and rinse. Store the inlet filter outside of the water heater during winter storage. Close the yellow drain and close the water heater door.
2. Switch the water heater to bypass mode. Valves A, B, D, and E should be closed. Valve C should be open. (Valve A: hot water outlet, Valve B: cold water inlet, Valve C: hot/cold winterize valve, Valve D: drain line, Valve E: circulation (hot water) inlet).
   
3. Open the fresh water tank, which is located either outside and under the unit or inside and under the bed.
4. If equipped, remove the charcoal water filter from the filter canister and reinstall the empty canister.

Step 3: Antifreeze

1. Set Winterize Valve to “WINTERIZE.” Ensure the city water valve is set to “NORMAL AND CITY WATER.”
   
2. Place the winterize pickup hose into the RV antifreeze jug.
   
3. Turn on the water pump.
4. Run the RV antifreeze through each faucet until only pink liquid comes out, both the hot and the cold. Don’t forget the exterior shower, the toilet, and the toilet sprayer wand.
5. Open valve D on the water heater and allow fluid to drain for several seconds.
6. Turn off the water pump.
   
7. Release pressure in the system by opening a faucet.
8. Remove the screen on the city water value in the service compartment.
9. Press the button on the city water check valve to drain out any remaining fluid. Do not do this with any pressure on the system, or the check valve will unseal, and the fill valve will need to be replaced. If no antifreeze fluid comes out, turn on the pump for one second while holding the check valve, and then reinstall the screen.
   
10. Hook up the air blow-out plug to the San-T-Flush and blow out using compressed air for approximately 15 seconds.
    
11. If the coach has a macerator, turn on the macerator to flush the winterized fluid through the pump.
12. Drain the remaining fluid in tanks using the macerator (if equipped) or the 3″ dump hose.
13. Turn the winterize valve back to “NORMAL FLOW.”
14. Remove the water pump filter and drain any remaining fluid. Not into any drain in the coach. Reinstall the filter.
15. Remove the water filter canister (if equipped) and drain any remaining fluid. Not into any drain in the coach. Reinstall the canister

Winterizing your Leisure Travel Van is key to ownership. It’s always important that you keep your coach in tip-top shape and ready for all seasons, including the colder seasons. If you are ever in need of professional help, contact the Service Department, and they will help guide you along the winterizing process of your LTV.

Feature photo by: Annet Moerman

In case you missed the first part of this series, go read Mark’s first story, Wonder-ful Space-Saving Hacks.

Since October 2020, we’ve made three 7-week trips with our two large, furry Great Pyrenee mixes. We’ve totaled 22,000 miles from our home in Tennessee through 18 states—from the shore of Lake Superior in the north to the Gulf of Mexico, and from the Rio Grande in Texas to the Rockies in Wyoming; on interstates, state highways, winding hilly two-lanes, dirt, and gravel. We’ve stayed in national parks, state parks, city parks, national forest campgrounds, dispersed camping, recreation areas, Harvest Hosts, parking lots, on the side of the highway, in driveways, streets, and of course; even RV parks. Throughout these travels, we have found products that have helped us travel and camp even better.

Outside

1. We found 18” Nite Ize Gear Ties to be really useful, especially for securing the fresh water hose and 30 amp external power cable. Some people recommend Cable Cuffs. We tried them first, but they were too small for these uses. The Gear Ties’ size, flexibility, and bright color have been an advantage. We now have more for other uses, like long dog leashes and extension cords.
2. Clear2O 2-stage water filter system. It’s not as cheap as the single cartridges, but it does a much better job of cleaning up the water you add to your freshwater tanks, and to me, it eliminated the need for another expensive filtration system. The Clear 20 inline filter works in tandem with a first-stage sediment pre-filter—they simply screw together for normal use, and it is compatible with other brands of inline filters if you needed to substitute. When packing up, to avoid leaking in the storage compartment, I empty excess water from the inside of the pre-filter by unscrewing the lid. I detach and shake the water out of the inline filter, then reattach everything before putting it away with the hose in the rear side compartment. The sediment filter can be used for 6 months if you clean it by backwashing—you’ll be amazed at how brown it starts to turn from the gunk it catches. The inline carbon block filter should be replaced every three months of use.
3. Inline water pressure regulator. Easy-to-use and reasonably priced We have not found that we needed an adjustable regulator with a gauge, but the ease of use makes it a no-brainer regarding water safety. The order of connection for me is: City water outlet > pressure regulator > Clear20 filter > water hose > Wonder.
   
4. Some influencers recommend using a quick-release connector for the freshwater hose input connection. We tried them, but they didn’t work for us because of the angle and the limited space where you connect the hose for city water. Perhaps we didn’t get it angled correctly, but our quick connects are now in use in the backyard at home. I don’t mind screwing on the freshwater hose to the Wonder as I can make sure that the inlet to the Wonder’s freshwater tanks is screwed tightly then as well because I’ve noticed it getting loose from time to time.
5. Lynx leveling blocks for leveling at the campsite. We got a set of 10. It’s rare that we use more than that, but from time to time, we wish we had an additional four blocks so we could build a pyramid. Instead, we sometimes just stack two blocks and drive up the stack. It works. We keep the blocks in the small side compartment behind the coach entry door. I understand the ease factor of an automatic leveling system, but I’m not sure I can justify the cost difference even if it came factory installed.
6. We got a Hughes Power Watchdog 30 external surge protector—the basic model. We know there’s a surge protector built into the Wonder (under the seat behind the driver’s seat), so it’s possible we didn’t need this additional unit. However, you can’t read that one very easily. With the external unit, we can be sure no bad power gets any farther than where this surge protector plugs into the power pedestal, and we can see if there are any issues with the power as soon as we plug the unit in—before we attach our 30-amp cable to the Wonder. There are a couple of great choices on the market, and this one is what we got for the best price at the time; plus, its internal module is replaceable if it triggers. You don’t have to toss the entire unit and start over.
7. Everybody has a patio mat, and we’ve gone through three. We forgot and left the first while hurrying through a dump process because we had a line of RVs behind us. Then we got the only one left at the nearest Wal-Mart, and it turned out to be too big, so we returned it. Patio mat number three is a 6′ × 9′, which is the real tip to pass along. It’s large enough for setting up outside the entrance (as was our 8′ × 12′). But this size fits nicely into the long, upper rear compartment where we keep our hoses and cables. It folds flat enough to put on top of them without much difficulty. All this stuff gets handled in most arrivals and departures. Having it together makes the process smoother.
8. Weber Q1000 portable LP grill. It fits underneath the driver’s side front storage compartment, with the lid removed. I haven’t yet figured out if or how to get the grill to work with the Wonder’s included propane line and connector. Apparently, since the built-in line is regulated and the grill is, they don’t work together too. So we just use the small Coleman-style propane bottles that screw into the grill. They fit easily around the base of the grill in the same compartment.
9. Saving space is always an issue. We had an extra collapsible hose for use at home, and it has worked very well on the Wonder as a hose for our San-t-flush. We store it on top of the macerator hose so we can get to it easily whenever we dump and have time to rinse the black tank. 25′ has usually been enough.
   
10. A digital tire pressure gauge has proven to be so much more accurate and easier to use than my old-fashioned stick-type. This model has several extra features that recommend it—lights, seat belt cutter, and glass breaker. But the basic function of an easy-to-read tire pressure gauge is the best reason to have it.
11. After three trips in which I had to look for help with inflating the inside tires on my rear dual wheels, I got the VIAIR Portable Air Compressor. It isn’t small or light, but it has the capacity needed to fill the tires on the Wonder. I think it will be of great use in checking my tire pressure cold before driving and making sure I can top off inflation when necessary. I’ve already used it several times on cars at home and hope it will be a good investment, especially at a sale price from Amazon.

Inside

1. We bought three “Waterhog” floormats from L. L. Bean. Two of them are typical welcome mat-sized, 23″ × 35″. We put one on the floor at the top of the steps, where it catches dirt from entering AND in the kitchen, and another in the rear lounge. The third is a longer, 2’6″ × 6′ runner, which fits extremely well in the hallway connecting the kitchen to the rear lounge. They all have a rubberized backing, so they don’t tend to slip, but we can slide them around for best placement. They can be easily vacuumed (which we do daily), removed and shaken, or hosed for deeper cleaning. They catch dirt, grass, and fur from the dogs, and they often use them for sleeping. Plus, they add a bit of insulation for our feet on chilly nights. They roll them compactly for storage, are very durable, and come in a variety of designs and colors to fit your taste. We got one with mountains, another with two dogs, and a runner with trees.
2. We wanted a different silverware drawer organizer than the one that came with our Wonder. We looked online at the options and chose this one. Obviously, everyone has their own tastes and needs for space in the top drawer. This works well for us and gives us some room on the side and in the back for longer knives, spoons, can openers, corkscrews, and other gear.
   
   
3. Bissell portable, corded vacuum. We really tried to avoid buying stuff in general and particularly items that required more power and storage space. So we first traveled with a broom for sweeping the floors, plus a pet fur brush and shaking for the rugs. After two long trips and part of a third, I was fed up! The nearest Walmart came to the rescue, where we found our vacuum. Once again, there are lots of options on the market, but we wanted one that was corded and not battery powered, relatively compact, and would do well with all the dog fur. We now use it every day and store it in the shower. It is so much easier to clean the floor now! We also carry a small whisk broom for the entry steps and the front area floors.
4. Air Purifier. We bought a small, plug-in ozone air purifier that we leave in the kitchen outlet near the TV. We turn it on for a while after we cook something with a strong smell or when the dogs are damp. It is adjustable, creates a faint smell of ozone, which is claimed to bind with the odor particles (it’s not a fragrance-based air freshener) and makes a slight pleasant hissing noise. The model we have apparently is no longer available, but other small air purifiers like this look similar.
   
   
5. Command hooks that closely match the factory-installed coat hooks just inside the door. We put them up on the panel above the light controls as a good place to hang keys and hats, and we use the other hooks for jackets that hang further down. There are many types available on Amazon for you to choose from.
6. Headlamps have been very useful for nighttime set-ups or trips outside the vehicle with the dogs or to the bathroom. Ours are Black Diamond, five years old from REI on sale, but there are many options. Besides the variety of brightness settings, a nice feature is a red-light option, which doesn’t hamper night vision as much. They fit nicely in the little square space above the door, to the right of the inverter controller.
   
   
7. We got a handheld squeegee from Bed, Bath, & Beyond. We use it to wipe down the walls and floor of the shower when condensation is a concern or for moving excess water into the drain and keeping areas from getting soap scum and water deposit buildup. We also use it at the front of the vehicle to wipe off the condensation that builds up on the inside of the windshield overnight. Otherwise, it takes the defroster a long time to clear the glass enough to drive. We also like to keep an absorbent rag close by in one of the many dash storage areas to wipe the squeegee dry. This isn’t a perfect or streak-free fix, but it gets us going faster.
8. Enzyme-based RV digest-it liquid tank treatment. It’s simple to use—no mixing of powders, and we just pour a measure down the toilet to add it to the black tank after every dump. Everyone agrees that holding tanks work (and smell) best with a treatment to help prevent odors and break down waste. We’ve tried to avoid strong chemicals, and a bottle of RV digest-it liquid usually lasts us a full trip and longer. Others have recommended Happy Campers or Thank Tank. Again, there are numerous brands to try.
9. It’s been very helpful to have Reflectix windshield, and side window fitted covers for the Ford Transit 350 chassis. We got these covers after trying the privacy curtain to offer a little extra insulation and easier installation. More, they give us and our dogs access to a bit more of the front space than the curtain, and they keep the dogs from peeking underneath the curtain and seeing things to bark at in the early morning! These shades roll up for storage and press-fit pretty well into the windows—no snaps or magnets to install. We also bought a 10′ × 2′ roll of Reflectix Foil Insulation and cut pieces to fit the cabin windows and fan openings for offseason storage. Our primary purpose was to reduce sun wear through the windows, and it worked. If we were winter camping, these pieces might be valuable enough to warrant the space they would take for their improved insulation.
   
10. I visited the local auto parts store to pick up an assortment of fuses that might be needed—so far, they haven’t been. Look at the fusebox chart in the owners’ manual to see what you might need to replace, then get some extras.
11. If you are dry camping, chances are you will want some extra water even if you conserve. Instead of buying bottles, we got a set of four 2.5-gallon collapsible water bottles. With these, you aren’t discarding plastic bottles; they are lighter to carry than the larger versions and collapse for storage under the rear bench when you don’t need them. When traveling with them filled, we put them in the shower in case there’s a leak.
12. Finding small cookware with multiple uses is challenging in limited kitchen space. We use a wok a lot, so the Lodge 9″ Cast Iron Wok was a good find. It fits in the bottom drawer quite nicely and is the right size for the cooktop and for two people. It stir-fries greens or full meals and spills less than a frypan.
13. For a lark, I found Silipint 16 oz. tumblers with lids in riotous colors, as well as some more sedate wine tumblers/juice cups. We quickly came to love them for their many advantages. They hold hot or cold liquids, are flexible, don’t break, don’t rattle, are grippy, the lids don’t spill, and you can squeeze them into the dish cupboard in numerous in-between places; plus, the color options are a trip!

The rest of our cookware is mostly old pots, pans, and utensils that have made their way over from our kitchen over the years We use an old, round deep-dish pizza pan as a roasting pan that fits into the convection oven. But we have fun by taking along real silverware and cloth napkins handed down from our grandparents, and we’ve picked up some lovely placemats and candles along the way to dress up the table. The freezer holds a remarkable amount of meals frozen in advance, so we eat pretty well! It’s fun to have lovely, elegant meals in the middle of some wild and abandoned setting. 

Some Other Items That We Love

1. Rechargeable, battery-powered cordless clip-on fans that can be moved from place to place. We use them mostly on the side and front bulkheads for extra air movement when it was hot—for us in the chairs at the front and for the dogs sleeping at night. We can move them to the back at night, but the fantastic fan over the bed has usually sufficed.
2. Battery-powered refrigerator fan for better cold air circulation in the interior. I’m not sure this made a huge difference, but it is clear that there is a temperature difference between the top and bottom shelves of the rig, so in theory, this fan should help even that difference out.
3. Museum Wax to hold our things in place—like the toothbrush holder on one of the little corner shelf spaces in the bathroom. A few small balls of this pliable putty-like wax under the holder have kept it in place solidly. They are removable and leave no permanent residue.
4. Anti-static dryer sheets have been helpful since all the various screens and surfaces attract and hold dust due to static charges. I’ve used them to lightly wipe the plastic front surface of the refrigerator, the dashboard, the navigation screen, and the TVs. Microfiber rags have been good for cleaning those surfaces as well.
   
   

These are my uncompensated and experience-based suggestions. There’s so much to learn about what you really need and what won’t get used much in the limited space you have in your LTV. It’s easy to go overboard with all the gadgets, and there’s so much available now on the internet, some just the result of Amazon searches. Plus, we all have our own unique preferences and needs.

I hope this is a helpful list of suggestions we’ve tried and found useful in our Wonder. I know there are many others, and I look forward to hearing about them. Happy travels!

Editor’s Note: Robin North is a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

A new RV is a marvelous thing and we have thoroughly enjoyed our Unity MB. It is our roving hotel, taking us to the beach, mountains, desert, and all points in between. But, RVing is a lot like regular life – things can and do go wrong. The longer you have your unit, the more likely you’ll notice items that need attention which is why regular maintenance is such a key factor in keeping your RV in good condition. We make a point of looking after the RV. Jim’s dad was a mechanic so he is pretty familiar with handling the basic maintenance and doing small repairs. But in an LTV,  maintenance goes beyond the just engine. The appliances also require regular inspection and cleaning as do the locks, hinges, slide mechanism, and automatic steps. In all reality, if it moves or has to do with water or electricity, it needs some sort of regular maintenance!

Everything Requires Maintenance

We never considered any type of maintenance on a door lock, but learned with all of the vibrations from driving and the constant slamming of the door, it can come loose. Our unit has a simple, mechanical lock and over the course of a long trip, we noticed it started to become more difficult to close then almost at the same time, the automatic steps stopped retracting.

Thinking we needed to replace the parts for both the lock and the stairs, we bought both. It turns out that there was nothing actually wrong with the lock or the step motor because a simple tightening of the screws on the door lock resolved both issues. Once Jim closed the door to test the lock, the steps came to life! It turns out these two parts are linked by a sensor in the door jam which alerts the steps to retract when the door is closed. With the door latch being loose, the door couldn’t close properly which was causing the sensors to not line up and that’s why the stairs wouldn’t retract. Needless to say, we added checking the door lock screws to our monthly maintenance checklist!

Some things, like the door lock, are easy to fix. But some require the help of a professional. Like on one trip when the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. There was nothing apparently wrong, the vehicle seemed fine, but we couldn’t ignore those warning lights! It took a few phone calls to find a Mercedes dealer who could take a look at it. Turns out it was a bad wheel sensor. They made the replacement (covered under warranty) and we were back on the road within a couple of hours.

Operator Errors and Faulty Installs

Operator error haunted us for several trips as we learned about the RV. From figuring out why our electricity wouldn’t work (a tripped breaker on the inverter), to remembering to uncap the macerator hose when dumping the tanks, the RV learning curve was steep for us. After-market equipment can be the source of problems too. When we replaced our Becker navigation system with an upgraded system, the local installer didn’t properly secure the wires so we ended up with a gear shift that wouldn’t shift because it was bound up in the stereo wire!

After almost seven years on the road, we continue to have our share of mishaps. Some, like the wheel sensor, are caused by a faulty part while other problems are caused by operator error, lack of proper maintenance, or the carelessness of after-market installers and repair technicians. Troubleshooting on the road isn’t much fun, but you’ll experience less downtime if you can figure out if the problem is a simple fix or if you’ll need to call for professional help. I often had to resolve software and computer issues in my work, so I followed an escalating scale of problem-solving starting with the most simplistic fix and then, step-by-step, escalating to more involved tinkering. This kind of process also works with the RV. The first step is to get familiar with your RV, read the owner’s manual, investigate how the systems work, and make a maintenance checklist to stay on top of service. Be sure to do all of this at home and not when you are traveling in the midst of a problem!

Owner’s manuals can be your best troubleshooting resource.

Start By Thinking About The Problem

Sometimes there are noises or operational issues before the warning lights come on. Be sure to take note of those noises or operational issues so you can re-create the situation with your technician. You may also notice problems with adjoining systems or parts at the same time you discover a problem – as we did with the door lock and step. Make sure to give these some thought as to how they may be related. When you are working with the electrical or plumbing system, review the function of each component in the chain of parts sometimes that review can narrow down the problem and help identify a loose, clogged, or broken part. Has an appliance been causing problems? Look up the appliance manufacturer’s website and check the documentation and support line to ask questions about a troubleshooting process. If you are working with the engine, follow a similar component review if your expertise allows. But, if you are not experienced with mechanics; then give your technician all the information you can about what happened and when it happened.

1. What happened just before you noticed the problem?
2. Has any work been done on that part or system?
3. Is there any maintenance due on that part or system?
4. Has the operation been normal up until now or has it been declining?

Is This A Problem You Are Comfortable/Qualified To Repair?

If you are handy with mechanical things you almost expect to be able to fix anything. However, an RV is quite a complex mix of parts and systems that run the gamut including a diesel engine to plumbing. None of us are good at everything so don’t be embarrassed to call for help if the repair is not in your normal “wheelhouse”.

Sometimes you just have to hand over the keys to the professionals. Image source: Pexels.com

Use A Consistent Troubleshooting Process

Take the time to review any documentation you have on the part or system that is malfunctioning. If none is available, check online for documentation and check for user forums to see if others have encountered similar problems and what they discovered in their troubleshooting process.
Use what you find from the manuals, other users’ suggestions, and your own technical experience to outline a troubleshooting process. Begin with the simple fixes:

1. Check maintenance tasks
2. Check basic functions
3. Check the connections
4. Reset breakers (this is the first thing computer technicians tell me to do when working on an ailing computer – hit the restart button!)

You’d be surprised at how some of the most seemingly inconsequential things can lead to the solution. After you go through the troubleshooting steps, you’ll eventually either fix the problem or come to the end of your expertise.

Know When To Call For Help

If you have experience in the area of mechanics, plumbing, and electricity, most problems you run into with an RV can be resolved without outside help. Other RVers in forums can also offer some support by sharing their own repair experiences and may be able to provide additional information. But, if you don’t have any repair experience, then a good RV mechanic can be a valuable partner. Give your mechanic all the information you can about the circumstances around the problem and any related issues you have discovered. This information can help them troubleshoot more effectively, reducing the time the RV has to be in the shop.

The engine and chassis are the most specialized parts of the RV and as long as your unit is under warranty, you can take it to a reputable dealer for repairs. Even when your unit is out of warranty, it makes sense to use the chassis brand manufacturer as your preferred repair shop. Though it may seem more expensive up front, their familiarity with their own product can make them more effective at troubleshooting and repairs. Plus, if there are any recalls or service alerts, they can attend to those issues right away.

For appliances, you may find the manufacturer has a support line or documentation on their website. It is worth checking there before contacting an appliance repair technician.

Here’s hoping your travels are unencumbered by problems but if you encounter them, take heart in that there is always help available. You can find it through your roadside assistance program, the RV’s manuals, user forums online, the RV manufacturer, a good RV mechanic, or just maybe, at the end of your own arm!

The Wonder is an amazing vehicle, but as new LTV owners and RV-ers, our Wonder Rear Lounge presented us with a challenging learning curve. Throughout our travels, we have discovered that certain things go well in certain places in our LTV. So, in hopes that this might makes someone else’s start easier, here are some wonder-ful space-saving hacks that we have found to make our Wonder (named “Stevie”) work well for us.

Utilizing Spaces In Your LTV

The Wonder has many ingenious storage spaces and some that are a little unique. Two immediate examples: LTV’s characteristically thoughtful design makes the spaces available under the entry step and under the chair next to the door for spare shoes and gloves or other items you need when going in and out. The massive amount of storage under the rear couch seat is amazing. We use it for items we won’t need every day, and it holds a massive amount including our tools in two shoeboxes, a compressor, extra food, supplies, cleaning materials, hiking boots, extra shoes, trekking poles, golf umbrellas, a fishing rod and reel, and even a ukulele. What a great space!

Bathroom

There is a great little shelf behind the bathroom toilet on the outer wall that is perfect for stacking rolls of toilet paper. It fits an entire 8-roll package, so you can see when you’re running low. I put the bottle of Unique RV Digest-it on the floor, in the little space between the toilet, that shelf, and the sink so it’s convenient to pour it in each time after you’ve dumped your black tank. We also bought a small plastic storage bin that fits into the corner behind the toilet and functions well as a bathroom wastebasket.

We found a triple hook that hangs over the bathroom door to hold pajamas during the day and clothes at night. We leave it facing the hallway at night and turn it into the bathroom during the day to keep the hallway or bathroom less cluttered. Since the door is beautifully curved and the hooks are flat, the fit isn’t perfect, but we added stick-on cork pads to the part that goes over the door to protect the wood and to keep the hook solidly in place.

Since the Wonder only has one towel holder, you can also see that we hung another single plastic over-the-door hook for a second face towel.

The medicine cabinet is pretty straightforward, and there are a couple more spaces for larger items under the sink. We’ve used the little corner shelves to hold a small first aid kit (bottom) and a hair dryer (middle), and on the top shelf, we mounted a toothbrush holder, secured on the bottom with museum wax. Obviously, everyone will find their own ways to use the spaces in this cozy bathroom.

Rear Lounge

We’ve used the small angled rear shelves above the TV as our “desks,” where we keep our own pens, various cords, chargers, adaptors, glasses cases, and other miscellaneous personal items.

We also like to carry a lot of reading options, so we’ve turned the bottom clothes drawer into our “library.” There we put books, Kindles, notebooks, file folders, cellophane tape, checkbooks, stamps, envelopes for receipts, and quarters for the laundry. We use another shoebox to keep smaller items organized.

Each of us has one remaining drawer for clothes and we divide the four large overhead cabinets. Don’t overlook the corner space in the cabinets, it’s great for a backpack, belts, and gloves. We share the hanging closet and our laundry detergent fits in the back. When we packed for our first trip, we had lots of room left over and added more clothes. There is plenty of space!

The cupboard at the lower back corner has been a good place for us to put an extra bag of dog food, along with a tote bag holding treats and toys. The storage opening above it is perfect for bed pillows, a heating pad, and extra comforters while we travel. It holds comforters and throw pillows from the couch at night.

Shower

Our really helpful salesman, Joe Parisi at Van City RV, was great in getting us to “think RV” when it comes to storage. Best example: the shower has amazing storage space! Who knew? So it holds numerous things we get out of the RV first when we reach camp. Camp chairs and the broom and other large items like rolled Reflectix window covers for night, vacuum, and a yoga mat. It can also be the place where you hang a laundry bag.

Kitchen

The kitchen cupboards, drawers, and pantry also hold more than we imagined. Everyone will come up with their own arrangement I’m sure. But just know, you can fit a lot in those three drawers—we got a toaster and a small crockpot in the second drawer, with pots plus the wok in the bottom drawer. Placemats and potholders fit between things to keep them from rattling while driving. The pantry also holds more than you expect as well The upper cupboard over the stove is great for dishes and glassware, just make sure it’s not tippy! We experimented with an inner shelf rack once. When I opened the cupboard door, 4 bowls came tumbling out and shattered on the floor. Do not recommend it.

The upper corner storage shelves are great for dry goods that take more height—cracker or cereal boxes, snack bags, pasta. Our teapot and measuring cups go on the other side. The angled sides and roof make for some interesting challenges as we try to wedge things tight so they won’t tip out while driving. But you can certainly squeeze in a lot.

We even use the microwave/convection oven for storage when it’s not cooking, which is most of the time. It’s been ideal for bread and bagels when they are fresh and before they need to be refrigerated.

Likewise, the sink offers great storage while traveling. It holds our fruit bowl and fruit, with the sink cover on the top to keep things in place.

Front Cockpit Storage

The Transit has so many storage spaces behind and above the seats as well as in the dash that we can’t fill up completely, but some have been particularly handy.

A large spiral-bound road atlas goes on top of the dash. Door compartments hold more detailed paper maps (from AAA) and a variety of travel guides. In the canopy, we keep our road and camping journal along with any materials we gather such as national park brochures. Masks and sunglasses cases also fit above within easy reach and we can plug in our phones in several places to use Apple CarPlay and to re-charge while we drive.

Our laptops go in the seatback pouches, along with the book we’re reading at the moment.

Outside Passenger Side Compartments

The passenger side has a couple of smaller, but deep spaces. We put the dog items in one (towels, leashes, and water bowl). They are quickly available as soon as we stop and want to let the dogs out and the last things stored before we leave.

The space behind the door is good for our stack of leveling blocks again, this is handy as we arrive at a site for the night and want to get level right away. There is more than enough room here for blocks—so you can store other things in front of the blocks as well.

Outside Drivers Side

The largest compartment is below the water heater. You’ll want to think carefully and use it well. For us, this is the place for a large plastic-covered bin of dog food and the Weber grill with lots of room left between and around the edges for beer or other goodies we picked up during our travels.

The longer, short compartment above the service center is well-placed. We have a plastic box that contains outdoor-related miscellany—collapsible lantern, picnic tablecloth, etc.—at one end. Since it’s close to the water hookup and power connection, we store the fresh water hose (hooked together so it won’t leak), water filters (drained), the power cable, and the surge protector. On top of those, we squeeze in the patio rug—most of these things we get out as soon as we arrive, so everything fits and it’s conveniently located.

The Wonder is loaded with adaptable places and spaces—I know ours is but one of many working arrangements. In this respect, especially, I look forward to hearing how other Wonder owners have found ways to make the space work for them!

Editor’s Note: Robin North is a member of LTV’s sponsored content team, The Leisure Explorers. Do you own a Leisure Travel Van and enjoy writing? Learn more about joining the team.

This post is for the clotheshorse. The fashionable, active, and indecisive wardrobe wanderers. I love clothes too and when I traveled for work I always packed a slightly downsized version of my closet. Standing at the luggage carousel in the airport required a porter to help me with my bags (a few in Atlanta, knew me by name!)

When we bought our Unity MB, I just assumed it was a very comfortable “travel trunk” and I could bring along most anything I wanted as far as clothes are concerned. While it has very good storage space for a small RV, it holds a lot less than my closet at home. Now don’t get me wrong, I love our Unity – it’s easy to drive, maneuverable, efficient, and fits in almost anywhere. Its size is one of the things that makes it so appealing. But, when it comes time to pack up for a trip its small size can be a challenge for a fashionista.

On our first long trip, I stuffed the closet and drawers full as well as one of the outside compartments with clothing, my husband Jim was relegated to one shelf, a few hangars, and a drawer. You see, I like to be prepared, so I took clothing to fit almost any occasion and of course, shoes to match. I had a couple of nice dresses to go out to dinner, a suit (in case I needed to do something for business), casual clothes for shopping, beachwear, as well as hiking and kayaking outfits, for all those things I thought I might do on the trip.

Luggage waiting to be loaded… where?

Now, fast forward five years and 30,000 miles of RV trips later, packing a travel wardrobe is now a different story. I actually share the closet and drawers with Jim’s clothes! So, what happened you ask? I had an epiphany while unpacking from one of those early trips. There were zipped bags of clothes that had never been opened items that I forgot I had packed, and shoes that remained in their protective sleeves. As I hauled that unused clothing from the RV back to the house, I muttered – “I can’t believe I didn’t use any of this”.

That winter while we were planning the next big trip I discovered a Pinterest post about capsule wardrobes. I read the blog and then bought the book and was horrified! The author suggested I pare down my wardrobe to 30 pieces -WHAT?! She proceeded to explain how every item mixes and matches with every other item allowing you to build multiple outfits. Okay, so I understand coordinates – I have bought wardrobes-worth of clothing like that, but this concept was a bit over the top.

As for a travel wardrobe, she suggested that if you are going on a 4-day trip, pack for 2, launder the items and wear outfits twice. This made me feel faint. Obviously, she didn’t understand that small RVs don’t have laundry equipment and as for wearing the same outfit twice, well, that’s just crazy talk. However, I was not at all into this “30-item” strategy, but I did begin to see that I could be a bit more discerning with my packing list.

Being the methodical person I am, I measured the RV wardrobe closet and drawers. And then figured out how many pieces of clothing I could hang or fold. Looking at the number of items, I knew that I couldn’t fit everything I wanted to take along, so I went back to my packing list. I decided I could probably “do” with fewer hanging items – I rarely wore a dress or suit while camping. Thankfully Jim, in his infinite patience, built an insert for the wardrobe that reduced the hanging space and added two shelves on the condition that he still maintains his hangar allotment and gains at least one of the two new shelves. Done deal.

Shelf and rod insert Jim built to accommodate more clothing.

It was back to the packing list. I went through the itinerary for our upcoming trip to see what activities we planned. A hike or two and maybe some kayaking along with the regular activities of sightseeing, shopping, and museum visits. In terms of shoes, I would need hiking and water shoes. Other than that, the outdoor clothing would just be jeans and tee shirts with a hoodie. As for sightseeing, shopping, and museum visits, I added just a few coordinates and (I confess) extra shirts, scarves, and jewelry to at least give me a few more options. Reviewing the downsized packing list I was skeptical, so I added another shirt for my peace of mind.

When it was time for our trip, I dutifully packed through the pared-down clothing list and then stuffed in a few more shirts – just in case. Still, I stuck to my “assigned” spaces (things were pretty snug) and Jim packed with his usual ease. I planned a stop every two weeks for laundry and brought along detergent, a few plastic hangars, and clothespins to do “sink laundry” if necessary. I was sure I would run out of clean clothes.

The trip was great, I actually wore most of the clothing and the two-week laundry stops worked fine. I never had to do “sink laundry” which was good since we were on the move every day. Some items that I had packed, I just didn’t need and realized I would have liked other items in their place or just a little more space in the closet to prevent wrinkling (and yes, I always take along an iron).

That is how each trip has gone ever since. I plan out a wardrobe with a number of pieces that will easily fit into the wardrobe and drawers, then adjust the items according to what we plan to do on the trip. You might wonder about heavy clothing for cold weather. We typically camp in moderate weather but for winter trips, we use space-saving, vacuum-sealed bags. They will still take up a good amount of room, so we put them in an outside compartment.

I think in terms of projects and processes, my RV travel wardrobe has been a very successful and enlightening project. I’ve learned to live with less and it is rather liberating! Maybe you’ll enjoy it too. Here’s my Small RV Capsule Wardrobe decision process:

First, think about the types of activities you’ll be doing on THIS trip. Write these down and list the types of clothing you need for each of those activities. Outdoor activities like biking, swimming, or kayaking may require special clothing (hiking boots, water shoes, swimsuit, flip flops, etc.) Regular travel activities like sightseeing, restaurant outings, and tours all probably use similar types of clothing so it is a matter of how few outfits you can live with.

Next, make a storage space inventory of your RV. How much and what type of storage do you have? This includes hanging space, drawer space, cupboard space, outdoor compartments, or under-bed storage. Consider using space-saving bags to reduce bulk, use hooks on the back of a door for belts or scarves, and identify a spot for shoes. Activity clothing might go in an exterior cabinet (in a space bag of course).

Oh, so handy ‘Space Bags’ zip-up and compress the air from bulky clothing.

Once you identify what space you have for clothing storage, then you can begin the process of building a small-RV travel wardrobe. The number of pieces is directly related to the amount of space you have. The choice of pieces is influenced by the activities you plan for your trip.

Time To Build The Packing List

1. Put all the clothing you think you’ll need on the bed – only items that fit, look good on you, and are in good repair.
2. Create three stacks of clothing: special activity clothing, regular outfits, and staples like PJs, underwear, and socks.
3. Since it’s usually the “regular clothing” that seems to grow beyond space limitations, you’ll probably spend most of your downsizing in this stack. Look at the “regular clothing” stack and consider how the pieces coordinate with each other. Try to coordinate 1-2 weeks’ worth of outfits with the smallest number of pieces possible. This is easier if you choose neutrals for your main pieces (like pants, shorts, sweaters, and jackets) and make your “color pops” with shirts or scarves.
4. Now, determine if the downsized stacks of clothing will fit in the storage space of your RV.
5. If you still have too many items, go back to your “regular clothing” stack and try to reduce the number of items. This is when you consider wearing outfits twice and doing laundry more frequently (sorry, this is real life).

You can get creative with scarves, jewelry, or hats to make your outfits more unique. A simple pair of jeans can change just by the item you add. Try a tee, hoodie, cap, and sneakers for casual outdoor fun, a tailored shirt and flats, or a tank top, scarf belt, and sandals. Shoes are always an issue, but for RV travel you have to reign in your collection to just a few pairs: maybe sneakers, sandals or boots, and flats.

Scarves and jewelry can create unique looks from basic clothing coordinates.

It’s not rocket science and it’s probably not something you gave much thought to when you purchased your RV however, clothing storage and wardrobe habits need to adapt to smaller spaces. Each LTV unit has its own storage configuration and LTV has conveniently put those measurements on the website giving you the ability to do a bit of research before you start packing.

Take it from this “reformed” fashionista, the real key is not the amount of storage space that matters, it’s our idea of how much we really need to be comfortable on the road. If travel is a way of freeing our minds of clutter and freeing our spirits of worldly demands, it makes sense that it can also free up our need to take along everything we own when we travel!